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Day Tripping in Paris

14 May

During a recent afternoon and overnight in Paris in April 2024, before my Burgundy barge river boat trip, I had some great experiences and a one unfortunate experience in what I thought was a taxi. After briefly settling into my centrally-located Parisian hotel, the concierge recommended a French Brasserie, a fave as I love seafood. Brasserie Flotte was a pleasant serendipitous walk, which was occurred between the rainy showers. It had a traditional brasserie feel, with lots of locals.  Staff was attentive and responsive to my questions and requests. I ordered one of my most loved Parisian dishes, meunière, and it was cleaned and cooked perfectly. I also enjoyed the simple accompaniment of spinach. Great wine selection, with many of my French wine favorites.

Perfectly sated, I headed back to my hotel for a needed a siesta after my ridiculously early wake-up time to make my departure flight from Alicante to Paris. Upon awakening, a live jazz music aficionado, I searched for what I thought was the best prospect, and boy, was I right. I may not excel at lots of things, but for reasons I don´t understand, I have unusual luck with finding great restaurants or eating spots, from dives, unmarked (nearly secret) eateries, and luxurious and exquisite cuisine, and fabulous live music venues focusing on jazz, R&B, and American Standards.  I also love classical music including chamber music, but you don´t need much skill or luck to find those. So on this night in Paris, I took a cab to Le Duc des Lombards, in the 4th Arrondissement which hosts some of the top rated jazz bars in Paris in an area with lots of jazz bars, so I figured if I didn´t like that venue, I could venture to another nearby. I arrived after the start of the set, but could immediately hear the music was great. While traveling alone when you are older with a physical disability can often be a challenge, sometimes there is a silver lining. Instead of having to go upstairs, the lovely hostess found a seat for me downstairs. As she explained ahead of time, my seat would be blocked from direct view by a wall support but there was a live video feed. However, just by standing up from my stool and leaning to the left, I could see the band performing.

The band was stellar, especially the singer, Crystal Lewis, as well as the trombonist and pianist.  The musician on trombone was able to jam with musicality, an unusual feat for most trombone players. The ad for the concert listed a trumpet player, so I did not get the name of the trombone player who probably was a substitute. The pianist was listed as Johan Dalgaard. Afterwards Le Duc had their standard jazz jam with stellar audience participants. Word of warning, waiting with people at the taxi stand/rank area outside Le Duc afterwards, I entered a vehicle that looked like the other cabs. I usually immediately check the meter upon entering a taxi, but in this case I did not. When I arrived at my hotel, he tried to charge me an outrageous amount, claiming he was Uber. I gave him the same amount as I paid to get to Le Duc and then quickly exited the cab as he continued to try to convince me to pay more.

After the delightful week barge cruise in Burgundy, we were driven back to Paris, where I walked only a short distance to the opulent, historic Café de la Paix, opened in 1862, (which is across from the Paris Opera House, Palais Garnier) where I have enjoyed many a good meal, as they specialize in fish and seafood. Sadly, I wasn´t able to make an advance reservation because of unpredictable arrival time (and it was good I didn´t as a car fire about 50 yards ahead of us delayed us for about 45 minutes).  I had just enough time to squeeze in a lunch there before catching a cab to the airport to return my home in Altea Spain. Sadly, without a reservation or a wait, I was unable to sit in the main restaurant, but was seated quickly in the more casual café. I had been looking forward to the restaurant´s delicious trout, so the kindly waiter asked the main restaurant if I could get it. Alas, I could not, but I had a lovely quiche, salad, and a generous wine pour from the kind waiter as consolation for not being able to get the fish. While walking to the restaurant, the sporadic rain had stopped, but as I dined, it re-started. An exit to a quickly-arriving hailed taxi made my relaxing transition to the airport an easy transition to head home.

Yet More International Food Porn

30 Oct

Best quiche ever: La Maja, Altea (nice view of Mediterranean Sea)

 

Artichoke confit with Spanish jamon serrano: Restaurante Mi Casa, Albir

Beef Pho (Vietnamese soup: Be Katsu, Albir

Burrata Salad: L’Etiquette, Altea

Seafood and avocado arepas (Venezuelan cornmeal used as sandwiches): You Lounge, Albir

 

Goat cheese salad with sesame seed croutons: La Maja, Altea

 

More food porn with international dishes from the Costa Blanca

28 Jul

These are some of my favorite food finds in the Costa Blanca area of Spain, including a couple of my own:

Jon Dragon Roll: Be Katsu. Albir; and other Vietnamese and Japanese food offerings (which I don’t remember the name of) 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scallops with leeks: Ma Maison, Altea

Bouillabaisse: Sabor, Altea

Asparagus tortilla: Ceverceria Ca Pepi, Alfaz

 

Chopitos (baby squid): Ca Pere, Altea

Goat cheese salad with duck gizzards confit: L’Etiquette, Altea with Mediterranean sea view

Homemade (casera) Korean crispy fried chicken, roasted cauliflower and other ingredients in spicy Korean gochujang sauce.

Tuna and avocado rolls: Hasaki Sushi, Altea

Escargot (no comments please): Belgomar, Albir

Homemade: miso, sambal chicken wings and green beans, plus sauteed mushrooms

 

Nature and Iconic Buildings In SLO (San Luis Obispo) County

2 Apr

San Luis Obispo California has been named by Oprah Winfrey as “the happiest place in America.”  New York Times best-selling author and explorer, Dan Buettner, called San Luis Obispo the top spot for the happiest places in the United States in his book Thrive.  San Luis Obispo was also one of ten recommended best places to see by the L.A. Times. I was fortunate to live there for nearly 30 years with my three boys, and here are some photos that show some of the highlights.

Whale breaching at Morro Bay

 

 

 

Hearst Castle, San Simeon

Hearst Castle pool

Monarch butterfly grove: Pismo Beach

San Luis Obispo Mission (1772), with bronze sculpture of local bear

Iconic, kitschy Madonna Inn: famous restaurant, theme hotel rooms, and great live music for swing dancing

California wildflowers: Eastern San Luis Obispo county

Historic Queen Anne house: San Luis Obispo

Vineyard near our home in Templeton

Elephant seals during their migration and breeding: San Simeon

D’Anbino Cellars: wine and top live music venue by award-winning cousins in music, film, and tv

“Goatee” surfing: Pismo Beach

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Top Five Things To Do in Elche Spain

11 Nov

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View from the top of Altamira Castle of Basilica of Santa Maria

Located in the southern area of the Valencian Community, just south of Alicante, Elche makes a great one or two day trip. It is the third largest city in the Valencian Community, with Valencia and Alicante being more populated. The Palmeral de Elche (the Palm Grove of Elche), which consists of approximately 200,000 palm trees, was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, and is one of the main draw for tourists.

The area is believed to have been settled by Greeks, then Carthaginians and Romans, followed by others including several centuries of Moorish rule. The city offers a mix of nature, history, an engaging city centre, and the option of lovely beaches and great shopping, with over 1000 shoe factories!

 

The following are my recommendations for the best sites to visit:

 

  1. I recommend starting at the Museo Arqueológico y de Historia de Elche (MAHE), located in the Altamira Castle, built during the 12th to 13th century. The museum provides visual, written, and verbal information on the history of the area in displays which provide a summary of each of the periods of occupation. The most famous archaeological find was the statue “The Lady of Elche,” believed to be from the Iberians in the 4th century. A copy is on display, with the original being in the National Archaeological Museum of Spain in Madrid, which is a source of contention for the people of Elche who believe it should be returned to Elche. During my tour of the museum, I found the succinct overviews of each era to afford adequate information without museum fatigue. The MAHE facility is modern and mostly accessible, with the exception of the very top of the castle. Take those remaining stairs to reach the top of the castle for a panoramic view of the city and the adjacent Palmeral.
  2. As soon as you exit the MAHE, you will find part of the Palmeral, and the municipal park. The Palmeral is thought to be established during the 5th century by the Carthaginians. Sophisticated irrigation systems were added during the Arab occupation during the 10th century. It is the only such palm grove in Europe, and the northernmost such palm garden. In this part of the Palmeral, there are paths where one can observe the varying vegetation, ponds, swans, historic buildings, a restaurant, exercise stations, playgrounds, and more. The Palmeral is not only confined to this area, but is spread around the city. There are maps available at the Tourist Office or hotels, which provide suggested paths to view the palms.
  3. Across the street from the MAHE and Palmeral is the city centre where there are a number of visit-worthy historical sites. The Basilica of Santa Maria has layers of history, with a beautiful Valenciana Baroque façade. Originally a Mosque, after the Reconquista, a Catholic Church, probably Gothic style, was built. It was here that the liturgical drama, Misteri, Elche Mystery Play, was first presented. In 2001, it was declared a UNESCO “Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity,” and is performed every August in conjunction with the Assumption of Saint Mary. Later the church was rebuilt with different styles over the centuries, eventually with the current emblematic regional blue tile domes.
  4. Nearby the Calahorra Tower, built in the 13th century in the Amohade style, was the most important entry gate to Elche, with the road leading to Alicante. Note the shape at the base of the Calahorra is wider to provide structural stability. However, this did not prevent severe earthquake damage in 1829, which resulted in the loss of the two upper floors. On the surviving back wall, there is a colorful vertical garden, flanked by a gastro-restaurant, which is an inviting place for a meal or refreshing drink.
  5. The Huerto de la Cura is a 12,000 square meter garden displaying Mediterranean and tropical plants. It is famous for its Imperial Palm, which features a unique date palm with seven branches. It got its name from a visit by the Empress Elisabeth of Austria, Sissi, in 1894. The park’s inviting paths, plants, and ponds provide an enchanting and tranquil respite. There is a souvenir area where you can buy plants and regional food and craft items.

    Seven branch Imperial Palm

    Seven branch Imperial Palm

San Francisco Pictorial

15 Sep

Reminiscing on some of my favorite travel spots. This one is about my last trip to San Francisco, and some of the interesting sights we experienced.

Top of the Mark (Mark Hopkins Hotel with panoramic view of the city) where I enjoyed swing dancing to Stompy Jones

Crazy candy store with gigantic treats and other entertaining items

One of the outdoor food stands, obviously this is the creme brulee cart

Interesting building from San Francisco’s China Town, the largest China town outside of China

Chinatown’s R & G Lounge. Authentic and delicious food. Been there several times, as did Anthony Bourdain, I later learned

Graffiti in China Town

Moon Pies and other bakery goods in China Town

Selection of Chinese teas in China Town

 

Highlights of Cordoba and Sevilla

19 Jun

Here are some photos from a recent trip my son, Michael Marlen-Starr and I took in Cordoba and Sevilla. I highly recommend Cordoba, with its beautiful flowered patios; Roman, Muslim and Christian history; small town feel with friendly people and great food; plus live music and dance venues.

Patio of our Cordoba B&B

Roman temple at Cordoba

Mezquita: Cordoba

Narrowest street in Cordoba: Michael and me

Organ: Mezquita Cordoba

Roman bridge: Cordoba

Mezquita: Cordoba

Mezquita: Cordoba

King Alfonso: Alcazar Cordoba

Garden at Alcazar, Cordoba

After a short trip via train, we arrived for a short visit of Sevilla. Here is one view of the Cathedral of Sevilla

Stained glass window: Sevilla cathedral

Tomb of Christopher Columbus: Sevilla Cathedral

Former minaret at Sevilla cathedral

Food Porn from the Costa Blanca: Altea, Albir, Alfaz and Benidorm

23 Apr

Perro Negro: Altea, bacalao with clams (bacalao con almejas)

Interrmezzo: Albir, lobster and mussels in Thai sauce (bogavante y mejillones en salsa Thai)

Tragantua Gran Taberna: Benidorm, octopus in garlic olive oil (pulpo al ajillo)

La Capella: Altea, Jamon bellota iberico

La Favorita Taberna: Benidorm, tapa with serrano ham, crab and shrimp (tapa con jamon serrano, cangrejo y gamba)

Sabor: Altea, carpaccio

Cerveceria Casa Juan: Alfaz, asparagus tortilla (tortilla con espárrago)

La Maja: Altea, cod on black rice (bacalao con arroz negro)

Blau Bellaguarda: Altea, roasted lamb with roasted veggies (cordero al horno con verduras asadas)

House of Jarl, Altea, brunch with paté, chorizo, perfectly cooked egg, cheeses, salad, potato with creme fraiche and dill

Rainbow seen from La Maja restaurant in Altea
3-17-18 (arcoiris)

16 of My Favorite Spanish Foods

6 Jan

I have decided to revisit some of my favorite meals and foods here in the Costa Blanca area of Spain:

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First course beachside at La Maja

grilled artichokes

grilled artichokes

Chopitos (fried baby squid)

Chopitos (fried baby squid)

Flan

Flan

Composed salad with goat cheese

Composed salad with goat cheese

Cocido con pelotas (traditional regional favorite)

Cocido con pelotas (traditional regional favorite)

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Sample of tapas served complimentarily with wine or beer

Paté plate

Paté plate

Seafood salad

Salad with cheese and ham

John Dory fish with salad and fries

John Dory fish with salad and fries

Sautéed fish with veggies in saffron sauce

Sautéed fish with veggies in saffron sauce

Seafood salad

Seafood salad

Jamon

Jamon

Grilled octopus

Grilled octopus

Pimientos de padron

Pimientos de padron

Paella with rabbit and calamari

Paella with rabbit and calamari

 

 

 

Fun, Food and Music: Two Days in Javea

10 Dec

Altea

Travelling requires planning, and then when things go awry, flexibility. I love living here in Altea, on the Mediterranean, in Spain, but I also want to continue my life-long love of travelling to new places.

 

To that end, I have been looking to explore nearby destinations, and places further afield in Spain and beyond. However, from where I live, it is often not easily accessible to other areas of Spain, and beyond. The local tram, now over 100 years old, is a major way to travel from Altea to the north to Denia and to the south to Alicante, and destinations in between. It is about an hour by tram from Altea to Denia and two hours south to Alicante. However, the tram has been undergoing upgrades, and so now only runs to Calpe, three stops north of Altea, and then you need to transfer to a bus which substitutes for the tram. I was going to Javea, (aka Xàbia) a little less than an hour north of Altea. While dogs are allowed on the tram, when I went to the local tram station and asked if I could take my dog on the bus, (since it was a substitute for the tram), she called to ask her superiors. She told me it was not allowed.

Pepper (aka Pimienta)

So I had already made Pepper, (aka Pimienta) my small dog, a portable carrier/backpack incognito, by tacking on black scarfs inside on the netting, so I could “sneak” him onto bus public transport. But when I took the tram from Altea to Calpe, and tried to transfer to the bus for destinations north beyond, I was told I had to leave the backpack in the luggage hold in the bus, (which is the same as the animal transport policy for public buses in Spain.) I could not leave the dog in the soft backpack in the luggage hold.

 

So I had to regroup. I ended up taking a taxi to Javea, for 48 €. Originally I booked the Parador in Javea (paradors being historical buildings converted into hotels and restaurants), but the booking website incorrectly said they allowed dogs. Then I booked The Hotel Rodat, also a 4 star hotel.  It was a lovely hotel which reminded me much of hotels in the Santa Barbara area of California. Unfortunately for me, the dog-friendly rooms were down many stairs, (with no disabled access nor rails for the stairs) and no ability to eat in any of the hotel restaurants with your dog; in Spain, usually there is outdoor seating where pets are welcomed. I was planning to eat at their 1 Michelin star restaurant. The room service only had a limited menu, and did not include any dishes from the Michelin-starred restaurant and very few from the more casual dining restaurant. A dog-friendly hotel where you cannot eat at any of the restaurants? No bueno.

Thus I proceeded to the L’Arenal beachside region of Javea where I enjoyed some snacks of berberechos and lobster soup at Fontana Restaurant. The outdoor covered roof with gas heaters allowed a cozy view of the beach walkway and all of its activities. Afterwards, I walked about two miles to the port to Varadero restaurant and bar where Destry Spigner, a local blues and soul singer was performing. In addition to enjoying his performance, I had a tasty snack of Spanish cheese and hams.

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berberechos

After a restful night’s sleep, I enjoyed the garden area outside my room while Pepper played fetch. I then returned to Los Remos, a restaurant which had an enticing menu that I had seen the previous day, but was unable to eat at as the kitchen was closed after 4:00 p.m. until the dinner service. I am glad I returned as I had one of the best meals I have had in Spain, (bogavante azul) and superb mixed sautéed vegetables. While dining, I watched the busy beach area, with youngsters getting surf lessons (although there was hardly any surf), families walking and playing, and dogs running on the beach (which is not allowed in the summer, but tolerated in the winter.) Happy and sated with my outing, I returned to Altea via taxi, for the same 48€ that it cost me to get to Javea from Calpe.

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blue lobster (bogavante azul)