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Day Tripping in Paris

14 May

During a recent afternoon and overnight in Paris in April 2024, before my Burgundy barge river boat trip, I had some great experiences and a one unfortunate experience in what I thought was a taxi. After briefly settling into my centrally-located Parisian hotel, the concierge recommended a French Brasserie, a fave as I love seafood. Brasserie Flotte was a pleasant serendipitous walk, which was occurred between the rainy showers. It had a traditional brasserie feel, with lots of locals.  Staff was attentive and responsive to my questions and requests. I ordered one of my most loved Parisian dishes, meunière, and it was cleaned and cooked perfectly. I also enjoyed the simple accompaniment of spinach. Great wine selection, with many of my French wine favorites.

Perfectly sated, I headed back to my hotel for a needed a siesta after my ridiculously early wake-up time to make my departure flight from Alicante to Paris. Upon awakening, a live jazz music aficionado, I searched for what I thought was the best prospect, and boy, was I right. I may not excel at lots of things, but for reasons I don´t understand, I have unusual luck with finding great restaurants or eating spots, from dives, unmarked (nearly secret) eateries, and luxurious and exquisite cuisine, and fabulous live music venues focusing on jazz, R&B, and American Standards.  I also love classical music including chamber music, but you don´t need much skill or luck to find those. So on this night in Paris, I took a cab to Le Duc des Lombards, in the 4th Arrondissement which hosts some of the top rated jazz bars in Paris in an area with lots of jazz bars, so I figured if I didn´t like that venue, I could venture to another nearby. I arrived after the start of the set, but could immediately hear the music was great. While traveling alone when you are older with a physical disability can often be a challenge, sometimes there is a silver lining. Instead of having to go upstairs, the lovely hostess found a seat for me downstairs. As she explained ahead of time, my seat would be blocked from direct view by a wall support but there was a live video feed. However, just by standing up from my stool and leaning to the left, I could see the band performing.

The band was stellar, especially the singer, Crystal Lewis, as well as the trombonist and pianist.  The musician on trombone was able to jam with musicality, an unusual feat for most trombone players. The ad for the concert listed a trumpet player, so I did not get the name of the trombone player who probably was a substitute. The pianist was listed as Johan Dalgaard. Afterwards Le Duc had their standard jazz jam with stellar audience participants. Word of warning, waiting with people at the taxi stand/rank area outside Le Duc afterwards, I entered a vehicle that looked like the other cabs. I usually immediately check the meter upon entering a taxi, but in this case I did not. When I arrived at my hotel, he tried to charge me an outrageous amount, claiming he was Uber. I gave him the same amount as I paid to get to Le Duc and then quickly exited the cab as he continued to try to convince me to pay more.

After the delightful week barge cruise in Burgundy, we were driven back to Paris, where I walked only a short distance to the opulent, historic Café de la Paix, opened in 1862, (which is across from the Paris Opera House, Palais Garnier) where I have enjoyed many a good meal, as they specialize in fish and seafood. Sadly, I wasn´t able to make an advance reservation because of unpredictable arrival time (and it was good I didn´t as a car fire about 50 yards ahead of us delayed us for about 45 minutes).  I had just enough time to squeeze in a lunch there before catching a cab to the airport to return my home in Altea Spain. Sadly, without a reservation or a wait, I was unable to sit in the main restaurant, but was seated quickly in the more casual café. I had been looking forward to the restaurant´s delicious trout, so the kindly waiter asked the main restaurant if I could get it. Alas, I could not, but I had a lovely quiche, salad, and a generous wine pour from the kind waiter as consolation for not being able to get the fish. While walking to the restaurant, the sporadic rain had stopped, but as I dined, it re-started. An exit to a quickly-arriving hailed taxi made my relaxing transition to the airport an easy transition to head home.

Barge in Burgundy: French cuisine, wine, scenery and history

6 May

After a fab train trip on Venice Simplon Orient Express Istanbul to Paris route last September (2023), I was searching for a new travel experience.  I had previously taken an overnight train from Paris to Venice, which was a disaster. With the success of the recent delightful, luxurious Orient Express trip, I dared to explore boat travel in Europe.

I was looking for a small boat that would offer daily ports of call where I could disembark and explore. My initial searches yielded many popular destinations with excursions, like castles and other iconic sites but they included many cities and historic sites that I had already seen. I find no reason to repeat visits to a castle or many of the other historic sites that I had previously explored.

I happened upon European Waterways tours, which occur on a comfortable barge, with scheduled stops at or near smaller towns, and only a small number of passengers. They describe their barge tours offering “a balanced daily blend of gentle cruising and fascinating experience.” I elected to take a week-long river barge tour of Burgundy with the major cities being Dijon and Beaune. Each barge cruise offers a tailored itinerary, for example, mine focused on gastronomy and the acclaimed wines of Burgundy.  Other options are tours which focus on outdoor experiences such hiking and biking, etc. Hot air balloon rides are offered on some tours.

Our tour departed by two comfortable vans around 1:00 p.m. (1300) on Sunday from a very centrally located hotel in Paris in which we could stay or there was an option to meet them there for the departure. To keep things simple, I chose to stay at their scheduled hotel departure location. The transport took about three and a half hours each way between Paris and our Burgundy location. Another tour with a different itinerary departed and returned on our same dates and times.

Our comfortable, well-appointed “barge” featured six good-sized rooms, with more space than I expected including the bathroom. Our group consisted of four couples, and two single women. One of the couples had done previous river barge tours, and thus had booked this for the latest one. All Americans, the people on our boat were amiable, interesting, intelligent, well-travelled, kind, with not a single negative comment or interaction with staff or fellow travellers. We had communal breakfasts, lunches and dinner around one table, and we elected to change seats at each meal for changing experiences. The French chef was spectacular in providing delicious regionally-inspired dishes, adjusting meals to the special dietary restrictions of two passengers. Stephan personally presented information about the impending meal, including ingredients, preparation and other details. Since I am a “foodie” I briefly spoke with him about his last work experiences which included Mozambique and Zanzibar (places I had travel connections with) and the latter where he had a restaurant until Covid struck.

Staff on the boat (two to one passengers to staff) were professional, courteous, and attentive, including noting individuals´ preferences and special needs of the passengers. All of the passengers thought it was a stellar experience. The only disappointment some of us had was that we had envisioned the boat would pull into the towns on our itinerary where we could disembark and wander at our leisure. None of the towns on our itinerary we went to were on our boat´s dockings, so we had to be transported by the two vans to those locales, led by our boat´s conceirge. From the barge´s docking site, there were riverside walking and biking trails, with bikes available from the boat.

Musings: Perseverance Mars, Hubble, Fetishes, Tourette’s and an Emmy

25 Feb

The landing of Perseverance on Mars reminded me of some interesting past experiences. Bear with me as I do a sort of stream of consciousness that came to me watching the landing and communicating with friends. I have three friends who have worked for NASA, one of whom helped develop the Hubble space telescope. When this friend was working in Houston on the Hubble, he sent me a yellow page ad for a woman with my name, Dawn Starr, who was a “balloon stripper.” HAHA. When my youngest son was taking an aerospace class in junior high school, I mentioned to his teacher that I had a friend who helped develop the Hubble. She asked if he would come to present to the class. I was reluctant to ask, but he graciously agreed and did a great job. He lived only a few hours up the California coast, and brought with him some artifacts from the Hubble. He explained how they kept it charged all the time: in the sun, the batteries would recharge, then when dark they would rely on the batteries that had recharged in the sun.

Perseverance Mars Landin

As I mentioned the Dawn Starr balloon ad to a friend, we had a funny exchange about balloons and I mentioned there are balloon fetishes, as well as multiple other fetishes. There used to be a program on HBO called, “Real Sex,” which featured many types of fetishes, including but not limited to latex, dressing like babies, riding small ponies, etc.

So when my middle son went to be filmed for an HBO film, “I Have Tourette’s But Tourette’s Doesn’t Have Me,” I was surprised when I learned the film’s director was Ellen Goosenberg Kent, the same person who directed and produced “Real Sex.” I said nothing to my son until he was an adult. This 2005 film one an Emmy.

Hollywood was pretty run down when they filmed, but I found a nice, new hotel, The Delano, which had a sister hotel we had visited in Miami. Our friends, whose sons were also being interviewed and filmed for the film, had a different experience. Their boys wanted to know what the floor to ceiling pole was in their hotel room.

When I went across the street to an upscale restaurant, the woman sitting next to me at the bar was friendly. She was originally from South America. She said she worked doing ads for a weight loss pill. She was thin, so I asked her how much weight she had lost. She laughed and said none, that they had altered her ¨before¨ photos to make her look fat.

Thanksgiving Reminisces

23 Nov

Photo by Magda Ehlers on Pexels.com

Not long after I moved to Spain six years ago, (from the Central Coast of California), a Norwegian friend expressed interest in trying an American Thanksgiving. I was happy to do it, and invited a group of friends, not anticipating some of the challenges to come. While this year does not allow for Thanksgiving and other holiday get-togethers, I am reminiscing and laughing about a couple of past Thanksgiving celebrations.

It took some effort to find some of the American ingredients, like canned pumpkin pie filling, spices like sage for the stuffing, but found a whole turkey at the local carnicería (butcher.) When I purchased the turkey, I was asked if I wanted it cleaned. At first I said no, then asked to have her remove the remaining feathers and pins.

Surprise Thanksgiving morning as I began to prep the turkey, and discovered the giblets (internal organs) were not in the usual bag as in the U.S., but were still attached to the cavity of the turkey, so I had to detach them. No bueno. There were items inside I had never seen in the U.S. bag of giblets. Worse yet was the head was still attached, and I had to detach it, which took over an hour. I began to think there would be no turkey for dinner. Finally, got it in the oven, but the electricity in the stove and other appliances kept shutting off due to too much electrical demand, (a repeated experience at my dinner parties.)

In the end, it all worked out and the guests expressed pleasure at all the traditional American Thanksgiving offerings. Or perhaps they were afraid to give me their real opinions. I doubt I will ever make a whole turkey again.

I am reminded of my last Thanksgiving in the U.S. before I moved to Spain, which I wasn’t sure would happen. My three sons had other commitments on Thanksgiving, so I asked if they wanted a family Thanksgiving on an alternate day. All three enthusiastically agreed so they found a mutually agreeable date. Even with the standard Thanksgiving dishes, the dinner was atypical in their chosen topic of discussion: best and worst U.S. vice-presidents. I could add nothing elucidating to the conversation. As I was putting all the dishes on the table, I remembered the bread was still in toaster oven; I have an unfortunate habit of burning bread. My middle son remarked, “It’s not dinner until Mom burns the bread.” Good times.

 

 

Yet More International Food Porn

30 Oct

Best quiche ever: La Maja, Altea (nice view of Mediterranean Sea)

 

Artichoke confit with Spanish jamon serrano: Restaurante Mi Casa, Albir

Beef Pho (Vietnamese soup: Be Katsu, Albir

Burrata Salad: L’Etiquette, Altea

Seafood and avocado arepas (Venezuelan cornmeal used as sandwiches): You Lounge, Albir

 

Goat cheese salad with sesame seed croutons: La Maja, Altea

 

More food porn with international dishes from the Costa Blanca

28 Jul

These are some of my favorite food finds in the Costa Blanca area of Spain, including a couple of my own:

Jon Dragon Roll: Be Katsu. Albir; and other Vietnamese and Japanese food offerings (which I don’t remember the name of) 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scallops with leeks: Ma Maison, Altea

Bouillabaisse: Sabor, Altea

Asparagus tortilla: Ceverceria Ca Pepi, Alfaz

 

Chopitos (baby squid): Ca Pere, Altea

Goat cheese salad with duck gizzards confit: L’Etiquette, Altea with Mediterranean sea view

Homemade (casera) Korean crispy fried chicken, roasted cauliflower and other ingredients in spicy Korean gochujang sauce.

Tuna and avocado rolls: Hasaki Sushi, Altea

Escargot (no comments please): Belgomar, Albir

Homemade: miso, sambal chicken wings and green beans, plus sauteed mushrooms

 

Nature and Iconic Buildings In SLO (San Luis Obispo) County

2 Apr

San Luis Obispo California has been named by Oprah Winfrey as “the happiest place in America.”  New York Times best-selling author and explorer, Dan Buettner, called San Luis Obispo the top spot for the happiest places in the United States in his book Thrive.  San Luis Obispo was also one of ten recommended best places to see by the L.A. Times. I was fortunate to live there for nearly 30 years with my three boys, and here are some photos that show some of the highlights.

Whale breaching at Morro Bay

 

 

 

Hearst Castle, San Simeon

Hearst Castle pool

Monarch butterfly grove: Pismo Beach

San Luis Obispo Mission (1772), with bronze sculpture of local bear

Iconic, kitschy Madonna Inn: famous restaurant, theme hotel rooms, and great live music for swing dancing

California wildflowers: Eastern San Luis Obispo county

Historic Queen Anne house: San Luis Obispo

Vineyard near our home in Templeton

Elephant seals during their migration and breeding: San Simeon

D’Anbino Cellars: wine and top live music venue by award-winning cousins in music, film, and tv

“Goatee” surfing: Pismo Beach

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Top Five Things To Do in Elche Spain

11 Nov

IMG_1671

View from the top of Altamira Castle of Basilica of Santa Maria

Located in the southern area of the Valencian Community, just south of Alicante, Elche makes a great one or two day trip. It is the third largest city in the Valencian Community, with Valencia and Alicante being more populated. The Palmeral de Elche (the Palm Grove of Elche), which consists of approximately 200,000 palm trees, was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, and is one of the main draw for tourists.

The area is believed to have been settled by Greeks, then Carthaginians and Romans, followed by others including several centuries of Moorish rule. The city offers a mix of nature, history, an engaging city centre, and the option of lovely beaches and great shopping, with over 1000 shoe factories!

 

The following are my recommendations for the best sites to visit:

 

  1. I recommend starting at the Museo Arqueológico y de Historia de Elche (MAHE), located in the Altamira Castle, built during the 12th to 13th century. The museum provides visual, written, and verbal information on the history of the area in displays which provide a summary of each of the periods of occupation. The most famous archaeological find was the statue “The Lady of Elche,” believed to be from the Iberians in the 4th century. A copy is on display, with the original being in the National Archaeological Museum of Spain in Madrid, which is a source of contention for the people of Elche who believe it should be returned to Elche. During my tour of the museum, I found the succinct overviews of each era to afford adequate information without museum fatigue. The MAHE facility is modern and mostly accessible, with the exception of the very top of the castle. Take those remaining stairs to reach the top of the castle for a panoramic view of the city and the adjacent Palmeral.
  2. As soon as you exit the MAHE, you will find part of the Palmeral, and the municipal park. The Palmeral is thought to be established during the 5th century by the Carthaginians. Sophisticated irrigation systems were added during the Arab occupation during the 10th century. It is the only such palm grove in Europe, and the northernmost such palm garden. In this part of the Palmeral, there are paths where one can observe the varying vegetation, ponds, swans, historic buildings, a restaurant, exercise stations, playgrounds, and more. The Palmeral is not only confined to this area, but is spread around the city. There are maps available at the Tourist Office or hotels, which provide suggested paths to view the palms.
  3. Across the street from the MAHE and Palmeral is the city centre where there are a number of visit-worthy historical sites. The Basilica of Santa Maria has layers of history, with a beautiful Valenciana Baroque façade. Originally a Mosque, after the Reconquista, a Catholic Church, probably Gothic style, was built. It was here that the liturgical drama, Misteri, Elche Mystery Play, was first presented. In 2001, it was declared a UNESCO “Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity,” and is performed every August in conjunction with the Assumption of Saint Mary. Later the church was rebuilt with different styles over the centuries, eventually with the current emblematic regional blue tile domes.
  4. Nearby the Calahorra Tower, built in the 13th century in the Amohade style, was the most important entry gate to Elche, with the road leading to Alicante. Note the shape at the base of the Calahorra is wider to provide structural stability. However, this did not prevent severe earthquake damage in 1829, which resulted in the loss of the two upper floors. On the surviving back wall, there is a colorful vertical garden, flanked by a gastro-restaurant, which is an inviting place for a meal or refreshing drink.
  5. The Huerto de la Cura is a 12,000 square meter garden displaying Mediterranean and tropical plants. It is famous for its Imperial Palm, which features a unique date palm with seven branches. It got its name from a visit by the Empress Elisabeth of Austria, Sissi, in 1894. The park’s inviting paths, plants, and ponds provide an enchanting and tranquil respite. There is a souvenir area where you can buy plants and regional food and craft items.

    Seven branch Imperial Palm

    Seven branch Imperial Palm

San Francisco Pictorial

15 Sep

Reminiscing on some of my favorite travel spots. This one is about my last trip to San Francisco, and some of the interesting sights we experienced.

Top of the Mark (Mark Hopkins Hotel with panoramic view of the city) where I enjoyed swing dancing to Stompy Jones

Crazy candy store with gigantic treats and other entertaining items

One of the outdoor food stands, obviously this is the creme brulee cart

Interesting building from San Francisco’s China Town, the largest China town outside of China

Chinatown’s R & G Lounge. Authentic and delicious food. Been there several times, as did Anthony Bourdain, I later learned

Graffiti in China Town

Moon Pies and other bakery goods in China Town

Selection of Chinese teas in China Town

 

More Altea Food Porn (aka Food for those who are offended)

19 Jul

Best roast lamb ever: Blau Bellagarda, Altea

Paella: Racó de Toni, Altea

Shrimp with shredded puff pastry: Fronton Playa, Altea

Paella with lobster: Juan Abril, Altea

Bacalao: El Mercadito, Altea

 

Cola de rape (monkfish): La Paraeta, Altea

 

 

Mixed seafood: Calle Segovia, Sevilla

Entremeses (Spanish sausages, ham and manchego cheese): La Paraeta, Altea

Barbecue: Sant Pere festival, Altea

Paellas: Sant Pere festival, Altea

Bacalao: El Mercadito, Altea

Arroz negro (squid ink pasta with seafood): El Bodegon de Pepe, Altea