In my last post, I gave a brief summary of the annual Moros y Cristianos festival, and showed some of the opening day festivities. This post will feature a few photos from Entrada Crsitiana, and next post Entrada Mora.
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Top Festival Photos: Moros y Cristianos in Altea Spain
12 OctMoros Y Cristianos Festivals or Festes de Moros I Cristianos, in Valenciana, are very popular on the Costa Blanca, where I live. In my town, Altea, the main festival takes place at the end of September, honoring San Blas (Saint Blaise, in English.) However, the preparation for the main festival takes place all year long with each crew or brotherhood. Each of the many groups has its own marching band. As is typical of many festivals, at 8:00 or 9:00 a.m., (early by Spanish standards), there is a despertá, where musicians, drummers, and ear-numbing pellet guns stroll the streets with this form of an early wake-up call. And it is early as many of the festival participants party into the wee hours of the morning, with live bands starting nightly some time after midnight. This main part of the festival occurs Thursday through Monday, with the most popular event being the Monday night Entrada Mora, the parade featuring the “Moors.” I did ask around to find out if any actual “Moors” or Muslims participated, but was told no. This type of festival would not “fly” in the US but there are a number of festivals in Spain that may seem politically incorrect in other countries. In some of the photos of the brotherhood of the Moros, you will notice cigarettes and beer in hand, during the daytime marches. One of the “brotherhoods” has their headquarters just across the street from my patio, so I often get to witness their preparation and celebrations. Whatever one’s feelings are about the political incorrectness, the local atmosphere is electric with anticipation and excitement for the festival, and the music and costumes are fantastic.
In my next two blogs, I will provide photos of the Cristianos and the Moros, respectively.
Opening Day Festivities
Procession up the hill to the Church in Casco Antiguo with many fabulous musicians
Preview of my next post on the Entrada Cristiana
Preview of post on Entrada Mora
Travelling Solo as a Female
24 May
Altea, Spain
Travelling alone as a woman is something I take for granted. And moving solo from the Central Coast of California to the small Mediterranean town of Altea Spain was not something I considered that challenging, other than the practical logistics. Therefore, I have been surprised when I have received many comments telling me how “brave” I am.
Adventurous with wanderlust, yes, but brave?
I have travelled to almost 40 countries worldwide, many times solo and also with my three sons while they were children. When reflecting on those travels, I tell myself I must have been crazy to take one or all three young boys by myself to places such as Kenya, Australia, Italy, France,Turkey, Belize, Jamaica, Mexico, etc.
Family swimming at Palapa Bar, Ambergris Caye, Belize
Palapa Bar: Ambergris Caye, Belize
As I prepared to move to Spain, I chose to sell my large home, luxury car, and virtually everything I own, except a few kitchen items, but most importantly, family photos and videos. I was overwhelmed with the many photos and videos, which were too numerous to transport. I decided to have them scanned but because there were so many I had to choose which ones to take. I experienced unexpected happiness while reviewing our family travels. Travelling with children can obviously distract one from paying attention to environmental cues, but I guess I was lucky.
As a retired forensic psychologist who evaluated and testified on violent and sexual offenders, I am by no means cavalier when it comes to personal safety, particularly as a single woman. Here in Altea, I am often out late at night, as are many other females. Whether female or male, it is important to first know the safety of the area where you are. Certain cities are well-known for pick pockets, assaults, etc., and certainly researching the crime and safety of your destination should be an important part of travel planning. And go with your gut. If you suddenly feel an uneasy or fearful feeling, react accordingly. Do whatever will restore your sense of being safe by doing such things as getting to a safe public place, or hailing a cab rather than walking.
Palais Garnier: Paris Opera House
Some advocate finding a travel partner if one is a female travelling solo, but I would rather travel alone than risk having a toxic travel partner. That is exactly what happened to me when I took a rare cruise which started in Rome and then went to the Aeolian Islands. LuLu, who I had met on a Greek Islands cruise, was interested in going on the Italian cruise. The tour started in Rome. During a private tour (her demand) of the Coliseum, she repeatedly interrupted the tour guide, telling her to move on. Both the tour guide and I were shocked at her rude behavior. The tour guide said she had never seen anyone that rude. Not one for conflict, I disengaged myself from LuLu as much as possible the rest of the trip, which was difficult as she was my roommate.
Travelling alone enables me to more easily meet people, something I increasingly relish. Coming full circle, today I am waiting for the arrival of my 20 year-old son to my home in Spain. He will spend the summer with me. I hope we can travel to some of Spain’s many historic and beautiful sites, that is, if I can pull him away from the young ladies.
FAMILY REEF ADVENTURES IN BELIZE
3 May
Swimming with nurse sharks
Chowing down on the day’s catches as the sun set on the beach was a satisfying end to our private boat adventure inside the reef off Ambergris Caye, Belize. Especially rewarding was catching the reef fish used to make the ceviche and diving for the conch as well as the lobsters from Captain Tony’s secret, personal traps.
During our regular family trips to Ambergris Caye, we always book a day with Tony Calderon for snorkeling, fishing, and lobster-hunting. Being a lifelong resident, Tony and other captains like him, know the best uncrowded spots for reef activities. While the four of us fished with varying success, Tony masterfully pulled up one fish after another by lowering the fishing line by hand with only hook and bait attached. All the while he cheerfully helped us with bait or snagged lines.
After fishing, we snorkeled with the vibrantly-colored reef fish and then swam with rays and harmless nurse sharks. We learned how to identify which shells had living conch and which did not. Diving for lobsters was teamwork with attention to making sure not to get “clawed” while tossing the lobsters in the boat. At the end of the outing, we relaxed with drinks while Tony started a fire with coconut husks in the old-halved barrel where he planned to cook the lobster. When the coconuts collapsed the rusted out bottom, undaunted, he laughed and flipped it over, using the lid to finish cooking the lobster and sides. The only disappointment was I’ve yet to get Tony’s famous, secret lobster sauce recipe, although I did get a photo of the ingredients he used.
Tails from Altea Spain
13 Apr
Check out my different colored eyes
So I finally get to offer my observations on this move to and life in Altea, Spain. I might add that I was promised I could put my two-cents in some time ago, but it has been several years before this has come to fruition.
It was confusing with all of the moves I have had to endure, first my original owner, Robbie (son of my current owner) abandoned me to pursue a career as a chef. Besides the lengthy hours he worked, he also apparently felt compelled to spend considerable time doing cross-fit and training for competition weight lifting. I am still not thrilled about this abandonment, but apparently it paid off for him as he received many favorable reviews in such publications as the LA Times, LA Magazine, Zagat, with Belcampo being one of ten top best new restaurants in 2014 by Bon Appetit Magazine as part of Downtown Central Market in Los Angeles. I got to go to his restaurant twice. Even though they don’t allow dogs, I pretended I was a service dog. I was so excited to see him! Then I was whisked off again by my new owner/mama for more changes.
This is me in mama’s car before we moved to Spain
We ended up living in a place very different than where we lived on the Central Coast of California. The people here speak a different language, but I have learned about ten words in Spanish, such as ven (come,) muevete (move,) siéntate (sit,) and Pimienta (the translation of my name Pepper.) Many people greet me by name here; I am way more popular than my mama. People are intrigued by my two different color eyes: azul (blue) and marron (brown), and my dapple color. They also are amused when I sit up on my hind legs; they think I look like a Meer cat.
She takes me almost everywhere except when she puts on those black clothes and tells me she is going to Zumba and will be back soon. It feels like forever, especially after the uncertainty all of the changes have given me. When she goes out for a meal, I patiently (usually) sit under the table waiting for my reward from what she ate. Yum!
Daniel and me at his 40th birthday party at Altearte
Like her, I am becoming more social. I now excitedly great her friends, sometimes surprising her and them with my new enthusiastic attempts at kissing them, as opposed to my prior indifference. I enjoy our longs walks every day, usually at least one down to the beach, and the other to the top of the hill where the iconic church is (but we are not attending church.) However, we have fun with our friends in the evening. One of our good friends, Daniel (a native of Norway) celebrated his 40th birthday at one of our local favorite bars, Altearte.
Yesterday, we met up with my new dog friend, Pogo, and his parents, Karen and Barry who recently moved here from Costa Rica (although they are originally from Canada.) We had an outdoor lunch with them and mama’s friend originally from nearby Valencia, Nina. Then we went to the neighboring town, Albir, which has the second highest population of Norwegians, after Norway, so Nina could deliver a birthday gift to a girlfriend. En route, she saw a friend, a former talented sculptor of wood, who sadly suffered a stroke and can’t do his art or speak anymore, but my owner thought the sparkle in his eyes over a drink revealed a glimpse of his former charisma and talent. The owner of the Los Angeles café, also a friend of Nina, presented them with a colorful plate of tapas. After they were done, “claro,” (“of course,” in Spanish), I got my just desserts or should I say tapas. (And, yes, my mama knows the phrase was originally just deserts.)
Rafa at Club Cuba in Albir for Sunday evening salsa
It was already after the start of Sunday Cuba salsa dancing in Albir, and mama wanted to show the place to Nina. So that is where she goes when she leaves me on Sunday evening. When Rafa was initially playing some low key music, Nina loudly requested Cuban music, and he obliged. The only trouble was that they kept leaving me under the table alone so they could go dance. I guess it was better than being home alone. Then Nina drove us home where we went directly to bed after a fun- and wine-filled day. I burrow per my dachshund heritage, although I find it a little more challenging to sleep here due to traffic and people who talk way louder than I am used to.
It is quiet now during the three to four hour siesta, so I am going to take advantage of this time for a nap, before going for my evening routine of incessant ball chasing; I am ready for her to repeatedly tell me, “Dáme la pelota” (Give me the ball.) All in all, I like it pretty well here, which is good since my original owner, Robbie, is now going to be very busy at his new job at Saison, one of only four three star Michelin star restaurants in San Francisco. I just hope he and his brother Michael visit soon; here they are enjoying themselves in Belize with their brother Spencer and mama while I was left at Canterbury Tails doggie hotel. At least, Spencer will be visiting me next month.
Party…Spanish style!!
19 Mar
Party paella being prepared
Yesterday was a stellar day in that I was invited to the birthday fiesta of the “novio,” (boyfriend) of my good friend, Carmen, whom I have known for about a year. She came to Altea about a year ago, and now lives with Pepe in the adjacent town of La Nucia. Since La Nucia is slightly inland, the houses are more likely to be single-family detached homes, often on large plots of land in the undulating countryside which harbors fruit trees and other vegetation, horses, and other scenic pastoral sites. Although very close to my town of beachside Altea, it has considerably different feel.
Since I (proudly) no longer own a car, Pepe picked me up and drove to his “estancia” (ranch.) En route, he explained that he lived in Altea when he was young, but has been living in La Nucia for 40 years. Upon arrival, he gave me a tour of the house, outbuildings which housed two separate barbecues, and many fruit trees. I laughed as I recognized that the blue granite counters he had in his kitchen were the same as I had installed at my former house in California.
Mejillones (mussels) being cooked
Carmen, who is Cuban, was busy cooking dishes from her nascent land, including rice with black beans, pork (which had incredibly crispy delicious skins), and “tostones” (fried plantains.) Although I am not usually a fan of plantains, these were excellent. I watched as she pounded them a little flat and then fry them in oil. I rescued one batch from burning when she left the room to greet some newcomers. The following day (today as I write this,) when we spontaneously met for lunch and I told her how much I liked them when I usually don’t, she said she first soaks them in vinegar.
After her cooking creations were bundled for transport on party day, we took the short drive up the hill to the large outbuilding where the fiesta was to occur. Typical of this area, were two huge pans, one of paella and the other of mejillones (mussels) being expertly prepared by two local women. Paella, after all, is originally from Valencia, and Altea is part of the Communitat Valenciana (as they say in the local Valenciana dialect.)
Carmen helping with the party preparation
Of course, there were the typical cheeses and cured meats available, with loaves of fresh baguettes (as common here as on my many trips to France,) free-flowing wine and beer. With the mussels and paella, several large mixed salads lightly dressed were served in the middle of the lengthy table.
The promise of Cuban music for dancing was frustrated by the lack of cooperation of the equipment brought for that purpose, but Pepe backed up his car to the large open doors of the building and cranked up his Cuban tunes. Rei, a local salsa teacher, got (almost) everyone up shaking their groove things. The multi-cultural assembly including locals, Columbians, Cubans, a Norwegian and others made for a great experience including the chance to practice my Spanish and find new dance friends for the weekly Sunday Cuban/salsa music at Club Cuba in nearby Albir.
Toward the end of the birthday party, they served what was the best dessert I have ever had, and even one of my best desserts ever (although I am not much of a sweet eater.) It was vanilla custard between layers of thin, crispy puff pastry like a mille-feuille (Napolean) but with fresh fruit on top.
As it was time to leave, leftovers and lemons from Pepe’s trees were offered to take home. I was driven home with my large, gorgeous lemons in hand, feeling utterly happy with my new life in Spain. Unfortunately, my photos do not reflect the full revelry of the day as my camera battery crashed but what few I got are shown here.
Best Family Vacations: Ojai
20 Nov
The Pink Moment
Courtesy: Ojai Valley Inn
We all hush at the magical “Pink Moment” when the sky to the east over the Topa Topa Mountains creates brilliant shades of pink as the sun sets in Ojai, California. This is one of the few places in the world where people can see this phenomenon due to the east-west orientation of the mountains. Ojai is about 30 miles southeast of Santa Barbara or 90 miles north of LAX.
Ojai is one of my favorite places for a short stay with the family. We love the historic Spanish Colonial Ojai Valley Inn and Spa where I find the relaxing, casually elegant ambience evokes immediate relaxation. I can be perfectly content just soaking up the resort’s beautiful grounds, gardens and golf course, but we also enjoy the wide variety of activities for both adults and children on site, and in the town of Ojai. The Inn is pet-friendly and we enjoyed being able to take our dog with us.
I love the Mind and Body Studio located in the Spa Ojai building where they offer many different classes throughout the day, such as Pilates, several types of yoga, water exercise in the spa’s pool, stretching, cardio, spinning, Qi Gong, sometimes dance, and others. The Inn also offers classes for the mind such as meditation, physical wellness, and art classes at the Artist Cottage and Apothecary.
Ojai Valley Inn
Courtesy: Ojai Valley Inn
The resort has a premier championship golf course, with excellent professional lessons and a sports psychologist to help with the important mental part of your skills. Upon arrival, staff take your golf clubs to the clubhouse where they clean your golf shoes and ready your clubs for your scheduled round of golf. Because it is such a popular course, reservations are recommended. The Inn’s storied tennis history dates back to the late 19th century and boasts being one of the top tennis facilities in a hotel or resort in the United States. Professional tennis instruction is available.
Outdoor Fire pit
Courtesy: Ojai Valley Inn
There are myriad activities that can be done alone, as a couple or a family including hiking, biking, basketball, fishing, softball, volleyball and tennis. Camp Oak offers creative, stimulating and fun themed half-day and full-day activities for five to twelve year-olds. From 8 to 9 a.m., Acorn Hour at Camp Ojai hosts bonding for parents and their two to four year-old children by doing crafts or storytelling. During the summer, there are complimentary movies to watch while floating in the main pool. Free popcorn is also provided. The resort will arrange for horseback rides nearby that are suitable for the ages and skills of the riders; we have had fantastic experiences doing this. A walk into downtown Ojai offers an opportunity to explore the inviting historic downtown area. Make sure to check out Bart’s Books, which is the largest independently-owned outdoor bookstore in the U.S.
In town, we like to have dinner at Azu, where they have Spanish- and Mediterranean-inspired comfort food. They have many tapas style small dishes, as well as creative, tasty entrees. `The Ranch House requires a short but worthwhile drive for gourmet award-winning cuisine in a romantic atmosphere that has streams and lush plants.
There are several great spots to eat at the Ojai Valley Inn. The Oak Grill offers outdoor and indoor dining with the best Cobb salad I have ever had. Jimmy’s Pub is a good, casual après golf place for snacks, burgers, and drinks. More health conscious cuisine is available at the Spa’s restaurant, Café Verde. Maravilla is the Inn’s signature restaurant where they serve excellent, seasonally-inspired cuisine with locally-sourced produce featuring steaks, chops and seafood. The wine selection is excellent and the restaurant’s ambience is warm and inviting. Whenever we have been there on a week-end, in the evenings we have enjoyed entertaining live jazz in the lounge just in front of Maravilla while sitting near the warmth of the fireplace.
THE KINDNESS OF SICILIAN STRANGERS
13 Oct
Map of Grotte
After travelling over 6000 miles to Grotte, Sicily to find my fiancé’s paternal homeland, we eagerly approached the Zaffuto tractor and farm supply store in hopes of finding relatives who shared the same last name. However, we didn’t anticipate that the store would be closed for the daily afternoon “riposo,” the Italian equivalent of siesta which occurs from noon to three.
En route to the tractor store, we drove through the small town of Grotte, (near the Agrigento Greek Temples in southern Sicily,) where we noticed that almost all of the shops were closed. So it should have been no surprise that the tractor store located on the outskirts of town was also closed.
Zaffuto tractor and farm supply store
A middle-aged woman emerged from the house next door saying something in Italian that we couldn’t understand. With our hands we managed to signal we were looking for the owners, who shared my finacé’s last name of Zaffuto. The woman raised three fingers signifying the time when the store would re-open, and then generously invited us into her home, which was on the second floor above the home’s garage.
Upstairs the home was decorated with traditional Italian furniture and antiques. She pointed to the chairs around the dining room table for us to be seated. She served us beverages and a light snack while we continued to try to communicate with each other. Eventually, below we saw the men returning from their riposo, re-opening the store.
We said “grazie mille” and “ciao” to our hospitable hostess and proceeded to the store. With their chiseled good looks, well-coiffed black hair, designer sunglasses, and stylish clothes, the men looked like Italian models rather than workers in a tractor and farm supply store. None of the Zaffuto men spoke English, something not uncommon in small towns in Italy. Fortunately there was one man there who spoke some English because he had previously lived in Canada. As we attempted to exchange family histories, the men prepared and served us expertly-prepared espresso coffee from their commercial-sized machine.
Zaffuto men: Store owners on left and right
As customers entered the store and needed assistance, we decided it was time to leave. We exchanged “il balecetto,” a kiss on each cheek, and bid our handsome hosts, “Arriverderci.”
WEEK-END IN PASO ROBLES CALIFORNIA
8 Aug
courtesy sloballoon.com
Soaring slowly over the alluvial golden hills punctuated by mature oak trees and orderly rows of grapevines in a hot air balloon can be a transcendent, once in a lifetime experience. This is just one of the many offerings stay in the bucolic wine country in northern San Luis Obispo County. Every month has its unique activities, so determining travel dates warrant consideration of when the weather and activities meet the needs of the types of travelers: families, couples, friends or singles.
If arriving on Friday, head for the Paso Robles City Park for the weekly 2013 summer concert series which occurs through August 26, starting at 5:30. Watch the concert from one of the restaurants that have outdoor seating just across from the park: Reservations can be made for patio seating just across from the park at Berry Hill Bistro, Estrella, La Cosecha, or Chico’s or take a chance without a reservation at Artisan or Villa Creek. Food and beverages are also sold at the concert. Bring a sweater or jacket as it sometimes quickly cools down in the evening.
La Consecha charcuterie plate
“Paso” now boasts many of the best restaurants in the county. One of the newest, La Cosecha, (Spanish for harvest) Restaurant + Bar serves Spanish, Central and South American fare. This casual eatery has the feel of a casual, friendly ambience of a neighborhood watering hole. They are open daily for lunch and dinner, with options of indoor regular or tall table seating, a communal table for large parties, and outdoor patio seating. Some of the highlights are the braised bone marrow appetizer, Iberico ham with figs, Honduran-style empanadas, Black cod mofongo and the delectable paella of the day. The bar stocks Spanish sherries, food-inspired wines and beers, and has a dedicated mixologist who concocts seasonal craft cocktails such as the seasonal caipirinha made with Brazilian chaçaca, St. Germaine, limes and blueberries.
Il Cortile
Honduran-born Chef Santos MacDonal and his welcoming wife, Carole, also own one of Paso’s other best eateries, Il Cortile Ristorante, which specializes in rustic Italian food in their upscale, but comfortable restaurant. Dinner specialties include such creative appetizers as grilled octopus, crostini porchetta, pan-roasted quail with prisciutto-filled tortellini, and a bountiful selection of mozzarella cheeses. Santos’ homemade pastas and, when available, pork osso bucco, are house favorites. Just a half block from the city park, they are open for dinner daily from 5:00 p.m.
Artisan serves locally-sourced, creative American Fare. Now open daily starting at 11 a.m., Artisan is now at their new location, a stylish modern building, just across from the city park. The Kobayashi brothers have added an outdoor dog-friendly seating area, a full bar with some new menu items such as pizza. Chef Chris has a knack for unique combinations that wow the palate such as duck confit salad, spinach, pt. reyes blue, smoked almonds, “fried egg;” abalone tostada, avocado, pork belly carnitas; hanger steak, asparagus, black trumpets, bacon tater tots; and Alaskan halibut, burnt flour orecchiette, peas, morels, green garlic. For a list of best restaurants in Paso Robles, including information about type of cuisine, which meals they are open, patios and whether those seats can be reserved, wine or full bar, family-friendly, and dog-friendly.
D’Anbino Winery and Tasting Room
Paso offers an array of live musical and entertainment venues that appeal to varied interests. D’Anbino Cellars, a short walk from downtown, is one of the premier musical venues in the county, attracting local and nationally-renowned musicians who perform varied styles including jazz, bluegrass, blues, rock, funk, soul, and Great American Songbook. Their website provides information about events which include both afternoon and evening entertainment. Presently, they offer salsa lessons Friday evenings from 6:30 to 7:30 p.m. with an opportunity afterward to practice new moves. During the warm months, the Pony Club, the wine bar in the Hotel Cheval, offers nightly solo or duo artists which start in the early evening on Friday and Saturday, and at 5:00 p.m. Sundays. Listen on the outdoor patio under the shade of the large shade tree. Other local bars offering live entertainment include The Pour House, Pappy McGregor’s, and The Cattleman’s Lounge in The Paso Robles Inn. All of these music venues offer snacks or full meals. Also, many of the Paso Robles area wineries feature live music, especially in the summer. Vina Robles Winery recently opened their 3300 seat “boutique amphitheatre” which attracts big name acts like the Moody Blues, Darius Rucker, Tony Bennett, B.B. King, and George Lopez.
Festivals provide the perfect opportunity to experience local culture and food. The “First Saturdays: Wine and the Arts” occurs monthly from 5 to 8 p.m. They feature a wide array of art including mixed media, oil painting, jewelry, photography and quilting, with several wineries as participating venues. At the annual Olive Festival, this year on August 17, there are a number of entertaining activities for adults and children. There are many other family friendly activities in Paso Robles, as well.
Paso Robles City Park
One of the more popular festivals is the Classic Car Show Weekend, which occurs Labor Day week-end. It features members’ cars dating back to 1923 which are displayed at the car cruise and show. Starting Sunday September 29th at 3:00 p.m., The North SLO County Concert Association starts its 65th season, which will include 1930’s era vocalist diva Dawn Lambeth, a band featuring brass instruments, chamber music, and a vocal jazz quintet.
The celebrated Harvest Wine Weekend, October 18-20, visitors can experience the grape harvest up close; summon your inner Lucy for grape-stomping or enjoy more leisurely tours of wineries, many of which offer fantastic winemaker dinners and/or live music. The Paderewski Festival, scheduled for November 7-10, honors Ignancy Jan Paderewski, composer, virtuoso pianist, humanitarian, orator, and the first Prime Minister of Independent Poland after World War I. He visited Paso Robles on many occasions between 1914 and 1939, and owned over 2800 acres where he planted Zinfandel grapes, almonds and fruit trees. The festival features a variety of concerts, a piano master class, documentary, youth competition winners’ recital, and lecture. Traveller beware: some festivals and events can be very crowded, so take that into account when making plans.
Hotel Cheval
The best downtown lodging is the 16 room European-inspired, boutique Hotel Cheval. The cozy rooms have plush towels, quality bedding and many other amenities. Welcome cookies, bedtime organic chocolates and breakfast are included. Options for rooms include fireplaces, outdoor patios, sundecks, and for dog owners, pet beds and food and water dishes. The inviting central outdoor patio has a fireplace that visitors can stoke. The historic Paso Robles Inn first opened in 1891 and is the only hotel in the area that still offers thermal hot springs in guest rooms. The comfortable rooms are family and dog-friendly. The outdoor area includes a large grassy area, Koi pond, brook and flower garden. Ask for the “locals rate.” Although not in downtown Paso, Tuscan-inspired La Bellasera Hotel and Suites has luxury suites which include fireplace, whirlpool and patios. The outdoor pool also has a fireside cabana. Spa services are available at all three hotels.
article courtesy: slocoastjournal.com
KENYAN CONNECTION
4 Aug
Mother and baby elephant in Tsavo
Almost everyone who has been to Africa describes it as among his or her favorite travel destinations. I am no different. When as a single mother, I took my 11 year-old son by myself to Kenya, some wondered about that decision, especially as it was shortly after the 1998 Kenyan bombings.
After a couple of unmemorable days in Nairobi (perhaps I shouldn’t elaborate), we headed toward the Tsavo National Park, one of the largest and oldest game reserves in Kenya. Because it was only the two of us, our driver, whose name we later learned was Muguro, picked us up in a smaller van rather than the usual larger Landcruiser. As we headed down what they call a “major road” or highway, we were wide-eyed with clenched fists as he navigated the road’s huge craters. Littered along the road were many overturned trucks and other vehicles sacrificed by the perilous road, but we relaxed as Muguro deftly maneuvered the van.
The flight fiascoes we faced en route to Nairobi won’t be revisited here, but suffice it to say we missed our original flight, arriving late sans luggage. While staying in Nairobi and waiting for our luggage to arrive, we purchased one spare set of clothes each and the most basic toiletries. The suitcases had not arrived by the time we left for the safari. As we travelled the potholed road, it quickly became evident our luggage would never make it to the safari site. That actually turned out to be a freeing experience-in the morning, we hung our dirty clothing outside our hotel room door to be washed by the staff, and donned our clean apparel-no decisions to be made about clothing or other grooming.
While driving toward Tsavo, Muguro pointed out wildlife in the hills or on the distant horizon. Asking how he spotted them, he said you look for movement or a change in color. That lesson has helped me be far more vigilant in spotting wildlife, whether in Africa, home or other places.
Muguro was a quiet, dignified man, speaking only those things that needed to be said. As he took us on our dawn and dusk safari rides with the backdrop of Mt. Kilimanjaro, we gradually got to know him a little better. Besides his excellent skills at sighting wildlife on land, he was keen at identifying the many different birds. He also explained there were about 40 tribes in Kenya, each which had its own language, with most Kenyans speaking English and Swahili. He taught us some Swahili; my favorite word was “twiga” which fittingly means giraffe. Muguro related there were good relationships between the tribes and various minorities at that time.
We asked what area he was from, and he told us the Mt. Kenya area. Knowing the Mt. Kenya Safari Club was a popular big game safari and celebrity destination, I asked if he led big game safaris. When he affirmed he had, I asked if he had any interesting memories. By this time, we had been with him for five days, so he was somewhat less reserved, and related that he used to take William Holden on safari. Though not particularly impressed by celebrities, I asked him how those ventures went. He replied that Mr. Holden had sat around and in the tent all day drinking.
We loved our twice daily drives with Muguro, his beautiful countenance and incredible skills at spotting and tracking animals. We learned he was a loving father and husband. It was with sadness that we said our good-byes when he returned us to Nairobi. When we were at the Nairobi airport, as we were ready to depart, my son spotted Muguro and ran to give him a hug; Muguro smiled and hugged him in return.
Last letter from Muguro
We had already exchanged addresses, and kept in touch, receiving a last letter from him in 2003. Sadly, the next letter I sent came back as undeliverable, and I have never been able to contact him again. Near my home, I recently spotted a camouflaged fox traversing the landscape-a fond reminder our special time with Muguro.
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