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Adventures in Dining in Altea Spain

13 Mar
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Tapa with egg and garnish 13 Mar ’15

“Pigs ears?” he asked in Spanish, apparently to be sure I knew what I was ordering when I pointed to one of the tapas trays. I admit I wasn’t 100 percent sure what they were when I ordered them, but every tapa I had ever eaten at beachside Fronton Playa in Altea (Spain) was spectacular. I grew up eating my fair share of offal, so I am game for trying just about anything. On this particular visit, I decided to order a couple of tapas, so I could get more than the typical small tapa bites. Along with the pig ears, I had some small breaded and fried octopus “pulpo” tentacles, which were tender, which is not always the case at many local eateries. The friendly owner reminds me of Danny Devito. On most visits, I order a “vino,” which is accompanied by a creative, tasty tapa, which is included in the inexpensive 1,50 €  IMG_0392

 

 

 

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Valentina in Casco Antiguo

 

Valentina is another of my favorite tapas places where I have had interesting food forays. Andrea and his family hail from Puglia (Italy), but have lived here in Spain for many years. Andrea’s girlfriend, who is the chef, makes creative and delectable food. On one occasion, a darling two-year old girl repeatedly chanted, “Caracoles,” as she waited for the small snails to be prepared and served. She ate them like a pro. On several occasions, Andrea has brought me a tapa that he would not serve to everyone. One memorable tapa was something with a texture similar to tofu but with a meaty taste, saying he knew I would eat it. When I inquired as to what it was, he smiled and replied coagulated chicken blood. My son, Robbie, an executive chef in at Belcampo, a well-reviewed restaurant in Los Angeles specializing in their own humanely and sustainably raised animals, asked me to find out how it was made. 20140522_201050On one of the occasions I ordered something from the menu I had “Milhojas de pulpo y gula del Norte,” octopus with baby eels.

 

 

Dining in Spain is almost always a great adventure. I am an avid fish and seafood lover, and there is seldom a day that goes by when I haven’t had several of the many creatures available in the local Mediterranean waters. I am constantly trying new items from the sea including things we may have one of in California, like calamari. Here the calamari are large rings, about the size of onion rings, and often cooked by breading and frying. I find them too tough. Then there are “chopitos,” whole baby calamari with ink sacks intact, which are best when fried with a light almost-panko like crispness. Sepia is a cousin of sorts of calamari, which is larger and thicker, and is often grilled and served with a green “marinera” sauce, mariner’s sauce, not to be confused with the Italian tomato sauce, “marinara.” I have found some foods to not be worth the effort involved in trying to eat them. After a recent intense Zumba class, I went to a local tapas bar, regularly patronized by cordial smoking, drinking “abuelas” (grandmas) and their grandbabies, (and I mean no disrespect but it is very different than when I lived in San Luis Obispo county, California, where they were the first place to outlaw indoor smoking or smoking near food service.) At the café, I was told the grill had been turned off, but the fryer was working, so I ordered “patatas bravas” (spicy fried potatoes, which are not spicy if someone eats habanero sauce like I do), and fried fish. Note to self: check the type of fish before ordering. They were sardines and other equally small fish, which with my knife skills, yielded few consumable morsels. And the incredible number and quality of bivalves! Almejas (clams), berberechos (smaller clam-like content, with a scallop taste), the itsy bitsy tellinas (too much work), razor clams, mussels, oysters, gooseneck barnacles, and more.IMG_0380

 

The grocery markets are filled with seemingly endless displays of fish and seafood: fresh, frozen, and canned (which are viewed as another great way to access seafood as opposed to American’s frequent opinions that canned food is of suspect quality.) For a foodie like me, the grocery and fresh food markets are intoxicating with their fresh and novel ingredients. As I was photographing the vast displays of fresh fish and seafood at a regular local grocery market, Mercadona, a female fishmonger admonished me from taking more photos. So here I will include a partial sample of the store’s offerings, and the selection of frozen and canned fish and seafood is even larger. (If you read Spanish and the words don’t look familiar, that is because the official language here in the Valenciana Community is “Valenciana,” but more about that surprise to me at another time.) If you look at the trays of fresh items from the sea, it is apparent that many home cooks are adept at using fresh whole fish and other types of seafood.IMG_0378

 

quaileggsI thought I hit the jackpot when I recently walked into a local market and found a beautiful dozen little quail eggs, for 0,90 €, less than the American equivalent of $1.00. On today’s cooking television shows, they showed how to make livers with “sangre” (blood) over a fire in the hearth, and “coda de cordero,” typical recipes from other parts of Spain. The food options here are inspirational, and I am eager for my two boxes of kitchen cooking supplies to arrive here from my former home in California. Those are the only things I had shipped here, (along with a few family and travel) mementos, which speaks to my priorities.

You can find my many restaurant, as well as other reviews, on Trip Advisor, as well as my map of the hundreds of places I have travelled.

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View walking home after tapas today

 

 

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Swan’s Songs

25 Nov
Mike Swan

Mike Swan

Although he did not realize it at the time, playing with the Lester Lanin Orchestra at the royal wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana was one of the highlights of Mike Swan’s professional music career. This was one of a number of international music venues where Mike performed that had a formative influence on his varied musical repertoire. Presently, Mike performs his entertaining and diverse songs on bass guitar and vocals at La Bellasera Hotel in Paso Robles, California, on Thursday evenings with guitarist Adam Levine and Judy Philbin.

Mike always loved music and started playing the cornet in elementary school, and then went on to play the French horn in high school. He developed an interest in Dixieland music; when he and some friends formed a Dixieland band and could not find a banjo player, Mike borrowed a tenor banjo from family friends. Then he used a book to teach him to tune it and play basic chords. Once he got to the respected Reed College in Portland, he studied philosophy but continued his banjo playing by joining a “jug band.” During this time in college when folk music was big, he started playing the guitar, and later began playing bass guitar.

He left school to move to the San Francisco Bay area where he played banjo in a trio at the North Beach’s “Red Garter” which featured Dixieland music. Mike described the music they played as “cornball sing alongs” dating from the 1890’s through the Great American Songbook era. In 1967, the owner, Jack Dupen, offered Mike a job at the New York City Red Garter. Moving to New York with its 13 degree weather during the 1967 Christmas/New Year’s holidays was “like running away to the circus,” Mike joked. He also did some stints at the Red Garter’s Niagara Falls and Florence, Italy outposts, and subsequently started playing for competitor “My Father’s Mustache” where he led the band for two years.

Mike realized that if he wanted to continue to make a living playing music he would have to become a better guitar player and singer, and to that end he began studying with talented professional musicians in New York City. He honed his skills and expanded his repertoire which included jazz and ragtime. He learned songs in Italian, Swedish, German, and Hebrew/Yiddish which he performed at special events. The venues in which he performed expanded to private “society” parties for affluent patrons, Jewish celebrations, a private Aegean cruise, and Claridge’s in London while there for the royal wedding. When asked to share an interesting or fun experience, he related that they when he was playing with the Lester Lanin Orchestra they had a gig in Gstaad Switzerland, the second night the venue was at Eagle Ski Chalet which necessitated transporting their equipment by ski lifts. The themed party was pre-revolutionary Russian, for which attendees and musicians donned period costumes.

Besides his musical career, Mike also did corporate and IT work to help pay for raising his children and their college. In 2006, Mike said he and his wife were tired of their corporate work and the hectic pace of living in New York City. He stated, “Like a salmon swimming upstream,” they decided to return to California. They settled in northern San Luis Obispo County where Mike’s brother was living. Taking a break from music, Mike helped his brother with his import business. Then he received a call from a local Dixieland band which needed a banjo player, and with that, he became involved in the local music scene.

Mike is presently working on two CDs, having completed his first CD in “the early 2000’s” which consisted of a trio with him on banjo, along with a tuba and mandolin. Besides his weekly appearances at La Bellasera Hotel, he plays at many wineries where he jokingly described his function as “sonic wallpaper.” He also plays with Jazz in the Vines, and at private parties. He has been playing solo for hospice patients which he described as “rewarding.”  For more information on Mike and his performance schedule, go to http://mike-swan.com.

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Best Family Vacations: Ojai

20 Nov
The Pink Moment

The Pink Moment
Courtesy: Ojai Valley Inn

We all hush at the magical “Pink Moment” when the sky to the east over the Topa Topa Mountains creates brilliant shades of pink as the sun sets in Ojai, California. This is one of the few places in the world where people can see this phenomenon due to the east-west orientation of the mountains.  Ojai is about 30 miles southeast of Santa Barbara or 90 miles north of LAX.

Ojai is one of my favorite places for a short stay with the family. We love the historic Spanish Colonial Ojai Valley Inn and Spa where I find the relaxing, casually elegant ambience evokes immediate relaxation. I can be perfectly content just soaking up the resort’s beautiful grounds, gardens and golf course, but we also enjoy the wide variety of activities for both adults and children on site, and in the town of Ojai. The Inn is pet-friendly and we enjoyed being able to take our dog with us.

I love the Mind and Body Studio located in the Spa Ojai building where they offer many different classes throughout the day, such as Pilates, several types of yoga, water exercise in the spa’s pool, stretching, cardio, spinning, Qi Gong, sometimes dance, and others. The Inn also offers classes for the mind such as meditation, physical wellness, and art classes at the Artist Cottage and Apothecary.

Ojai Valley Inn

Ojai Valley Inn
Courtesy: Ojai Valley Inn

The resort has a premier championship golf course, with excellent professional lessons and a sports psychologist to help with the important mental part of your skills. Upon arrival, staff take your golf clubs to the clubhouse where they clean your golf shoes and ready your clubs for your scheduled round of golf. Because it is such a popular course, reservations are recommended. The Inn’s storied tennis history dates back to the late 19th century and boasts being one of the top tennis facilities in a hotel or resort in the United States. Professional tennis instruction is available.

Outdoor Firepit

Outdoor Fire pit
Courtesy: Ojai Valley Inn

There are myriad activities that can be done alone, as a couple or a family including hiking, biking, basketball, fishing, softball, volleyball and tennis. Camp Oak offers creative, stimulating and fun themed half-day and full-day activities for five to twelve year-olds.  From 8 to 9 a.m., Acorn Hour at Camp Ojai hosts bonding for parents and their two to four year-old children by doing crafts or storytelling.  During the summer, there are complimentary movies to watch while floating in the main pool. Free popcorn is also provided.  The resort will arrange for horseback rides nearby that are suitable for the ages and skills of the riders; we have had fantastic experiences doing this.   A walk into downtown Ojai offers an opportunity to explore the inviting historic downtown area. Make sure to check out Bart’s Books, which is the largest independently-owned outdoor bookstore in the U.S.

In town, we like to have dinner at Azu, where they have Spanish- and Mediterranean-inspired comfort food.  They have many tapas style small dishes, as well as creative, tasty entrees. `The Ranch House requires a short but worthwhile drive for gourmet award-winning cuisine in a romantic atmosphere that has streams and lush plants.

There are several great spots to eat at the Ojai Valley Inn. The Oak Grill offers outdoor and indoor dining with the best Cobb salad I have ever had. Jimmy’s Pub is a good, casual après golf place for snacks, burgers, and drinks. More health conscious cuisine is available at the Spa’s restaurant, Café Verde. Maravilla is the Inn’s signature restaurant where they serve excellent, seasonally-inspired cuisine with locally-sourced produce featuring steaks, chops and seafood. The wine selection is excellent and the restaurant’s ambience is warm and inviting. Whenever we have been there on a week-end, in the evenings we have enjoyed entertaining live jazz in the lounge just in front of Maravilla while sitting near the warmth of the fireplace.

JUDY PHILBIN’S MUSIC MOZAIC

27 Oct
Judy Philbin

Judy Philbin

Judy Philbin smilingly sings a sublime samba to the delight of the audience. Whether performing to a concert audience or restaurants and wineries, Judy relishes the opportunity to be energized and inspired by her listeners. She is excited about her newly released CD, Keeping It Simple, in which she collaborated with local talented guitarist and composer, Adam Levine (see my March 2013 column www.slocoastjournal.com archives.) The CD includes jazz standards, pop tunes, and four originals with two written by her, and two more to which she wrote lyrics to Adam’s compositions. As the title reflects, they kept the music simple, and straightforward, with Judy on vocals, and Adam laying down from one to four guitar tracks for each song.

Judy always loved to sing, and retrospectively noted that she was privileged to start singing at age six in one of the stellar children’s choirs they had at the time at San Luis Obispo First Presbyterian Church. At six, she also began playing piano. Over the years, she learned a variety of instruments including percussion, stand-up bass, trumpet, and guitar. In the eighth grade, she noticed all the boys played brass and all the girls played woodwinds, so she decided to play trumpet, which she continued through high school. She also was active in choir. In high school, as was typical of the era, she played guitar and sang the typical “teen-age angst-filled songs,” and began singing in coffee houses.

After completing her college degree, which was not in music, she returned to her love of singing by becoming one of the founding members of the acclaimed San Luis Obispo Vocal Arts Ensemble. Motherhood led her to take a temporary hiatus from the time demands of performing, but when her children started school, she began collaborating with a friend to do sing-along concerts for kids. Her husband and two children were also involved, and they even performed on the Children’s Stage at the Live Oak Music Festival.

As a child, Judy felt enriched by living with her family in Guatemala for two years, from ages four to six years of age, while her father worked there. She was drawn to the simple, traditional music there, particularly marimbas and flutes, and has since enjoyed music from Central and South America. She and her professor husband decided to give their children a similar experience living abroad by taking his taking a teaching position in Denmark, where they became involved with the international mix of people involved with the school.  During her two year stay in Denmark, she was impressed by and drawn to the quality jazz music. Upon return to San Luis Obispo, she was inspired to start developing her jazz and standards repertoire. To that end, she attended a workshop with Phil Mattson, a conductor, arranger, and father of the vocal jazz movement. He encouraged Judy to explore solo vocal work, which she has been doing seriously for the last five years. In 2007, she released her first album, Candle in the Window, which is a compilation of songs to provide comfort for those who have lost loved one. As a result she has performed numerous times nationally at conventions for The Compassionate Friends, which provides grief support after the loss of a child. She and her husband, who also sings, have been involved with the annual Central Coast Follies Parkinson’s fundraiser at the Clark Center for seven years, and she noted that the benefit has contributed over $250,000 toward Parkinson’s research.

Judy presently performs locally at restaurants, wineries, public concerts, and private parties. Nearly every Thursday evening, she, Adam Levine, and bass player, Mike Swan perform at La Bellasera Hotel in the lounge/restaurant starting around 6:30 p.m.; there is no cover charge. For information on Judy and her performance schedule, go to www.judyphilbin.com.  Judy encouraged locals to purchase the new release, Keeping it Simple, at local businesses which include Boo Boo Records (San Luis Obispo), Volume of Pleasure (Los Osos), and Matt’s Music (Paso Robles.) It can also be purchased from her website, Itunes and www.CDbaby.com.

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HAPPILY SINGING THE BLUES

27 Sep
Ted Waterhouse

Ted Waterhouse

Under the hot August sun in the expansive outdoor beer garden at the Barrel House Brewing Company, Ted Waterhouse was setting up for the weekly Thursday evening Real Blues Jam. The Barrel House Brewing Company is at the very south end of Paso Robles, California. He has gathered a group of talented local musicians who start the event by “jamming,” with Ted leading on guitar and vocals. Then musicians in the audience have an opportunity to sit in and play on the stage which is on the bed of an old, rusted truck.

Ted has become a regular fixture in the California’s Central Coast music scene since arriving here in 1980, after receiving his Bachelor’s degree in Anthropology. He didn’t initially intend to support himself as a musician. When he realized that to use his anthropology degree he would have to be an academician, he changed course.

At age 10, Ted said he started playing the guitar after his mother, a school teacher, took it up. Ted’s early formative influences were folk singers, other “American roots music” and Delta and Chicago blues. Living in the Los Angeles area, he was able to see some of the living contemporaries of Mississippi blues legend Robert Johnson including Lightnin’ Hopkins, Rev. Gary Davis, and Mississippi John Hurt.

In the 1970’s, unenamored with arena rock and disco, Ted expanded his music portfolio with “old jazz,” and swing jazz. Later he added honky tonk, country, varying styles of bluegrass and Western swing.  In 1973, Ted got his prized 1963 Stratocaster electric guitar on which he likes to play bottleneck slide. When he first got it, not knowing any better, he said he refinished it. Lately Ted had been playing his Telecaster, a sort of cousin to the Stratocaster. He also enjoys playing his resonator guitar, which is an acoustic guitar whose sound is produced by a spun metal cone instead of a wooden sound board.

Ted’s eclectic musical tastes are evident in the songs he writes and the different bands he puts together.  In The Blue Souls feature Ted and Debra Windsong on harmonica and vocals playing rockabilly, blues, and original songs. The Swingin’ Doors plays honky tonk and Western swing. Other groups Ted has had include the Hot and Cool Orchestra, Catalina Eddy and the Breeze, Viper Six who perform danceable swing jazz tunes primarily from the 1930’s and‘40s. Ted said he was excited about his new group Terraplane, the band’s name a take on the old Robert Johnson blues song Terraplane Blues. Chris Anderson will be playing keyboards. Ted related that this will be the first time he has had a regular keyboard player in one of his bands.  The incredible Jim Stromberg will be on percussion and vocals. He emphasized that songwriting is an important part of what he does.

In addition to the Barrel House Brewing Company, Ted enjoys playing in other venues including the Otter Rock Café in Morro Bay, Avila Bay Club, Atascadero Folk Festival, Live Oak Music Festival, Shell Café in Pismo Beach and wineries. To get on Ted’s mailing address for upcoming events, email him:  edcat@aol.com.

Courtesy: www.slocoastjournal.com

WEEK-END IN PASO ROBLES CALIFORNIA

8 Aug
courtesy sloballoon.com

courtesy sloballoon.com

Soaring slowly over the alluvial golden hills punctuated by mature oak trees and orderly rows of grapevines in a hot air balloon can be a transcendent, once in a lifetime experience. This is just one of the many offerings stay in the bucolic wine country in northern San Luis Obispo County.  Every month has its unique activities, so determining travel dates warrant consideration of when the weather and activities meet the needs of the types of travelers: families, couples, friends or singles.

If arriving on Friday, head for the Paso Robles City Park for the weekly 2013 summer concert series which occurs through August 26, starting at 5:30. Watch the concert from one of the restaurants that have outdoor seating just across from the park: Reservations can be made for patio seating just across from the park at Berry Hill Bistro, Estrella, La Cosecha, or Chico’s or take a chance without a reservation at Artisan or Villa Creek. Food and beverages are also sold at the concert. Bring a sweater or jacket as it sometimes quickly cools down in the evening.

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La Consecha charcuterie plate

“Paso” now boasts many of the best restaurants in the county. One of the newest, La Cosecha, (Spanish for harvest) Restaurant + Bar serves Spanish, Central and South American fare.  This casual eatery has the feel of a casual, friendly ambience of a neighborhood watering hole. They are open daily for lunch and dinner, with options of indoor regular or tall table seating, a communal table for large parties, and outdoor patio seating. Some of the highlights are the braised bone marrow appetizer, Iberico ham with figs, Honduran-style empanadas, Black cod mofongo and the delectable paella of the day. The bar stocks Spanish sherries, food-inspired wines and beers, and has a dedicated mixologist who concocts seasonal craft cocktails such as the seasonal caipirinha made with Brazilian chaçaca, St. Germaine, limes and blueberries.

Il Cortile

Il Cortile

Honduran-born Chef Santos MacDonal and his welcoming wife, Carole, also own one of Paso’s other best eateries, Il Cortile Ristorante, which specializes in rustic Italian food in their upscale, but comfortable restaurant. Dinner specialties include such creative appetizers as grilled octopus, crostini porchetta, pan-roasted quail with prisciutto-filled tortellini, and a bountiful selection of mozzarella cheeses.  Santos’ homemade pastas and, when available, pork osso bucco, are house favorites. Just a half block from the city park, they are open for dinner daily from 5:00 p.m.

Artisan serves locally-sourced, creative American Fare. Now open daily starting at 11 a.m., Artisan is now at their new location, a stylish modern building, just across from the city park. The Kobayashi brothers have added an outdoor dog-friendly seating area, a full bar with some new menu items such as pizza. Chef Chris has a knack for unique combinations that wow the palate such as duck confit salad, spinach, pt. reyes blue, smoked almonds, “fried egg;” abalone tostada, avocado, pork belly carnitas; hanger steak, asparagus, black trumpets, bacon tater tots; and Alaskan halibut, burnt flour orecchiette, peas, morels, green garlic. For a list of best restaurants in Paso Robles, including information about type of cuisine, which meals they are open, patios and whether those seats can be reserved, wine or full bar, family-friendly, and dog-friendly.

D'Anbino Winery and Tasting Room

D’Anbino Winery and Tasting Room

Paso offers an array of live musical and entertainment venues that appeal to varied interests. D’Anbino Cellars, a short walk from downtown, is one of the premier musical venues in the county, attracting local and nationally-renowned musicians who perform varied styles including jazz, bluegrass, blues, rock, funk, soul, and Great American Songbook. Their website provides information about events which include both afternoon and evening entertainment.  Presently, they offer salsa lessons Friday evenings from 6:30 to 7:30 p.m. with an opportunity afterward to practice new moves. During the warm months, the Pony Club, the wine bar in the Hotel Cheval, offers nightly solo or duo artists which start in the early evening on Friday and Saturday, and at 5:00 p.m. Sundays. Listen on the outdoor patio under the shade of the large shade tree. Other local bars offering live entertainment include The Pour House, Pappy McGregor’s, and The Cattleman’s Lounge in The Paso Robles Inn. All of these music venues offer snacks or full meals. Also, many of the Paso Robles area wineries feature live music, especially in the summer. Vina Robles Winery recently opened their 3300 seat “boutique amphitheatre” which attracts big name acts like the Moody Blues, Darius Rucker, Tony Bennett, B.B. King, and George Lopez.

Festivals provide the perfect opportunity to experience local culture and food. The “First Saturdays: Wine and the Arts” occurs monthly from 5 to 8 p.m. They feature a wide array of art including mixed media, oil painting, jewelry, photography and quilting, with several wineries as participating venues. At the annual Olive Festival, this year on August 17, there are a number of entertaining activities for adults and children. There are many other family friendly activities in Paso Robles, as well.

 

Paso Robles City Park

Paso Robles City Park

One of the more popular festivals is the Classic Car Show Weekend, which occurs Labor Day week-end. It features members’ cars dating back to 1923 which are displayed at the car cruise and show. Starting Sunday September 29th at 3:00 p.m., The North SLO County Concert Association starts its 65th season, which will include 1930’s era vocalist diva Dawn Lambeth, a band featuring brass instruments, chamber music, and a vocal jazz quintet.

The celebrated Harvest Wine Weekend, October 18-20, visitors can experience the grape harvest up close; summon your inner Lucy for grape-stomping or enjoy more leisurely tours of wineries, many of which offer fantastic winemaker dinners and/or live music. The Paderewski Festival, scheduled for November 7-10, honors Ignancy Jan Paderewski, composer, virtuoso pianist, humanitarian, orator, and the first Prime Minister of Independent Poland after World War I. He visited Paso Robles on many occasions between 1914 and 1939, and owned over 2800 acres where he planted Zinfandel grapes, almonds and fruit trees. The festival features a variety of concerts, a piano master class, documentary, youth competition winners’ recital, and lecture. Traveller beware: some festivals and events can be very crowded, so take that into account when making plans.

Hotel Cheval

The best downtown lodging is the 16 room European-inspired, boutique Hotel Cheval. The cozy rooms have plush towels, quality bedding and many other amenities. Welcome cookies, bedtime organic chocolates and breakfast are included. Options for rooms include fireplaces, outdoor patios, sundecks, and for dog owners, pet beds and food and water dishes.   The inviting central outdoor patio has a fireplace that visitors can stoke. The historic Paso Robles Inn first opened in 1891 and is the only hotel in the area that still offers thermal hot springs in guest rooms. The comfortable rooms are family and dog-friendly. The outdoor area includes a large grassy area, Koi pond, brook and flower garden. Ask for the “locals rate.” Although not in downtown Paso, Tuscan-inspired La Bellasera Hotel and Suites has luxury suites which include fireplace, whirlpool and patios. The outdoor pool also has a fireside cabana. Spa services are available at all three hotels.

article courtesy: slocoastjournal.com

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KENYAN CONNECTION

4 Aug
Mother and baby elephant in Tsavo

Mother and baby elephant in Tsavo

Almost everyone who has been to Africa describes it as among his or her favorite travel destinations. I am no different. When as a single mother, I took my 11 year-old son by myself to Kenya, some wondered about that decision, especially as it was shortly after the 1998 Kenyan bombings.

After a couple of unmemorable days in Nairobi (perhaps I shouldn’t elaborate), we headed toward the Tsavo National Park, one of the largest and oldest game reserves in Kenya. Because it was only the two of us, our driver, whose name we later learned was Muguro, picked us up in a smaller van rather than the usual larger Landcruiser. As we headed down what they call a “major road” or highway, we were wide-eyed with clenched fists as he navigated the road’s huge craters. Littered along the road were many overturned trucks and other vehicles sacrificed by the perilous road, but we relaxed as Muguro deftly maneuvered the van.

The flight fiascoes we faced en route to Nairobi won’t be revisited here, but suffice it to say we missed our original flight, arriving late sans luggage.  While staying in Nairobi and waiting for our luggage to arrive, we purchased one spare set of clothes each and the most basic toiletries. The suitcases had not arrived by the time we left for the safari.  As we travelled the potholed road, it quickly became evident our luggage would never make it to the safari site. That actually turned out to be a freeing experience-in the morning, we hung our dirty clothing outside our hotel room door to be washed by the staff, and donned our clean apparel-no decisions to be made about clothing or other grooming.

While driving toward Tsavo, Muguro pointed out wildlife in the hills or on the distant horizon.  Asking how he spotted them, he said you look for movement or a change in color. That lesson has helped me be far more vigilant in spotting wildlife, whether in Africa, home or other places.

Muguro was a quiet, dignified man, speaking only those things that needed to be said.  As he took us on our dawn and dusk safari rides with the backdrop of Mt. Kilimanjaro, we gradually got to know him a little better. Besides his excellent skills at sighting wildlife on land, he was keen at identifying the many different birds.  He also explained there were about 40 tribes in Kenya, each which had its own language, with most Kenyans speaking English and Swahili.  He taught us some Swahili; my favorite word was “twiga” which fittingly means giraffe. Muguro related there were good relationships between the tribes and various minorities at that time.

We asked what area he was from, and he told us the Mt. Kenya area. Knowing the Mt. Kenya Safari Club was a popular big game safari and celebrity destination, I asked if he led big game safaris. When he affirmed he had, I asked if he had any interesting memories. By this time, we had been with him for five days, so he was somewhat less reserved, and related that he used to take William Holden on safari. Though not particularly impressed by celebrities, I asked him how those ventures went. He replied that Mr. Holden had sat around and in the tent all day drinking.

We loved our twice daily drives with Muguro, his beautiful countenance and incredible skills at spotting and tracking animals. We learned he was a loving father and husband. It was with sadness that we said our good-byes when he returned us to Nairobi. When we were at the Nairobi airport, as we were ready to depart, my son spotted Muguro and ran to give him a hug; Muguro smiled and hugged him in return.

Last letter from Muguro

Last letter from Muguro

We had already exchanged addresses, and kept in touch, receiving a last letter from him in 2003. Sadly, the next letter I sent came back as undeliverable, and I have never been able to contact him again. Near my home, I recently spotted a camouflaged fox traversing the landscape-a fond reminder our special time with Muguro.

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WATCHING BALLET FROM A BATHTUB IN PARIS’ OPERA HOUSE

29 Jul
Paris Opera House: Palais Garnier

Paris Opera House:
Palais Garnier

Always excited at the prospect of watching world-class ballet performed in a historic, opulent opera house, I quickly became perplexed and frustrated when the translated Paris’ Palais Garnier website offered seating in the “bathtub.” My French is limited to the most important things-ordering food and wine. The Parisian Opera House did not allow any outside assistance, such a ticketing agency or concierge assistance, so I was left to my own designs  to figure out the seating on my own, (which was further hampered by my wanting technological skills.)

I finally found a feature that, when clicked on, showed the view of the stage from those chosen seats, or at least that is what I hoped. Left with no other choice, I clicked the “purchase” button and nervously hoped for the best.

Le Grand Foyer

Le Grand Foyer

When we eventually arrived at the grand venue of the Opera House a few months later, we sipped the obligatory champagne, admired the elegant beaux-arts design, and then proceeded up the stairs to see what awaited us. We entered a private door into a vestibule where we left our wraps, and then proceeded to the red velvet splendor of our private seating area.

As I eventually learned, the bagnoire translates into English, not only to bathtub, but also to the lowest seats in a small box seating area at an opera house.  Relieved, we had a good laugh, another glass of champagne, and settled into our “bathtub”  to enjoy the ethereal, mesmerizing ballet.

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SWING DANCING IN CATALINA’S CASINO BALLROOM

23 Jul

Catalina Casino Ballroom

The “Big Band” wails swing music in the sybaritic art-deco Casino Ballroom in Avalon on Catalina Island. Dancers of all ages dressed in their ’40s finest triple-step, lindy, glide, and even perform aerials to the rhythmic, revved-up sounds of the Second World War. The Catalina Swing Dance Festival occurs annually in November (this year November 8-10.) During the day, a variety of  classes are available including the Charleston, Lindy Hop, Collegiate Shag, 1950s Teen Swing, the Balboa, and more. The Balboa dance uses small, close dance steps which were developed to cope with California’s Balboa Peninsula’s crowded dance floors in the 1920s. Instructors at the swing dance festival are enthusiastic, renowned professional performers and teachers. One needn’t have a dance partner to participate in the dance workshops or even be a dancer to enjoy this lively, nostalgic festival.

Swing Dancing in Casino Ballroom

Swing Dancing in Casino Ballroom

On Saturday evening, even non-dancers can enjoy the live big bands and decked-out dancers in against the backdrop of the largest circular ballroom in the world. When it was built in 1929 it became the tallest building in Los Angeles. In it early heyday, thousands of dancers would arrive by steamship for the privilege and pleasure of dancing in the historic ballroom, which can accommodate over 6000 dancers!  Built with dancers in mind, the ramps to the top floor ballroom facilitate relatively quick access to the dance floor and were also designed to prevent injuries or fatigue that could be caused by stairs. In addition, the hardwood floor was constructed over layers of foam, pine and cork, which are suspended over five feet.

Besides the Casino Ballroom events, there is après-festival karaoke at El Galleon Restaurant, as well as midnight swing dancing at Antonio’s. In addition, there are both planned and spontaneous swing dance demonstrations on Crescent Avenue, the main tourist walkway. For people who wish only to make a day trip, there is typically a special 12:45 a.m. return ferry to Long Beach.

Descanso Beach Club

Descanso Beach Club

Non-dancers and dancers can enjoy the island’s many land, air and water activities. Too numerous to mention them all, some of the land highlights include Wrigley Gardens, interior tours, golf, walking tours, bike rentals, and ghost tours. Scuba, snorkeling and “snuba” are available, which will require donning a wetsuit due to the cold water this time of year. Although the Descanso Beach Club, on one of precious few sandy beach spots on the island, is scheduled to be closed from mid-October until mid-April for low season, they sometimes open for out-of season warm weather weekends. They have cocktails, beach chair rentals, and snorkeling. For the adventurous, there is a nearby zip line eco tour. Information about Catalina Island activities is available at: www.catalinachamber.com/island/activities.

The vibrantly painted Lobster Trap emphasizes fresh, tasty seafood in a casual and sometimes raucous atmosphere with friendly service at reasonable prices. Memorable appetizers include “monkey balls” (ahi-stuffed mushroom tempura), a variety of fresh fish with a choice of seven delectable sauces, as well as a good selection of chicken, beef and other land animals. A full bar, live weekend entertainment, and televised sporting events make this a fun and popular spot..

Inn on Mt. Ada

Inn on Mt. Ada

For a memorable lunch, head up to the Inn on Mt. Ada, the former Wrigley Mansion, perched atop a hill overlooking Avalon and its harbor. The highlight is spending several hours at the Inn with a lunch that includes unlimited beverages (wine, sodas, coffee and tea) and an extensive menu of salads, sandwiches, burgers, and the daily Mexican special. Even after finishing lunch, guests are free to roam the main floor of the Inn which houses the den, sun porch, living room, formal dining room, and the terrace, which reveals a spectacular view of Avalon, the harbor and beyond. The Inn is the premier place to stay on Catalina. Reservations required.

For a central hotel location with easy harbor and beach access, the newly-remodeled, mid-century style Pavilion Hotel is ideal for both couples and families. Amenities include continental breakfast, afternoon wine and cheese social, tranquil lounge areas, a cozy fire pit, and bright, airy rooms. The hotel is perfect for both families and couples. Luxurious accommodations are available at The Inn on Mt. Ada, but due to its location at the top of the hill, transportation is needed to get to the Inn and back to Avalon. Camping is another option for the adventurous or budget-minded.

Book the hotel, festival and ferry early and pack as lightly as possible due to the necessity of carting luggage from the car to the ferry, the hotel and then back. Round-trip ferries on Catalina Express to Avalon leave from Long Beach, San Pedro, and Dana Point. The length of the boat ride depends on the route and type of boat, so carefully consider all options. The other transportation options are helicopter, or private plane which lands on the perilous-looking runway high on the island.

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LET’S DANCE!

23 Jul
Linda Drake

Linda Drake

San Luis Obispo (SLO) County, in the beautiful Central Coast of California, is home to one of the premier social dance scenes in the United States. Social dance is a category of dance styles which can be performed with a variety of partners in a relaxed, social setting. While many people think this type of dancing if primarily for competition, locally less than 5% of the dancers are competing; the rest of the dancers are doing it simply for fun. Some of the dances taught here on the Central Coast include East Coast Swing, West Coast Swing, Argentine tango, foxtrot, rumba, salsa, waltz, cha cha, nightclub, the hustle, two-step, country and western, ballroom and more. While many people feel intimidated at the prospect of what sounds like complicated dances, the reality is learning these dances are readily attainable.

Some of the best local dance classes are offered by the fun and nimble-footed Linda Drake through SLO Dance. Linda offers over 20 years of local professional dance teaching experience. Linda and the other dance teachers include a number of nationally-recognized award-winners.  There are classes of all levels, including many beginning classes. She and her other SLO Dance teachers provide skills, patience in a friendly, fun atmosphere which makes it possible for anyone to learn to dance. Linda shared her oldest student was at least 84 and her youngest age 12. Many of the skilled dancers at such public venues as concerts in Mission Plaza, Templeton Park, Paso Robles Park, and Arroyo Grande Park have taken dance lessons from SLO Dance or other local dance teachers.

Linda started dancing with her high school drill team. She entered and did well at the Miss Dance Competition, even though she had no formal dance training. At age 18, she was hired to teach at an Arthur Murray Dance studio.  While teaching there, Linda received the coveted Top Female Instructor in the Nation award. She has also been awarded Top Professional Instructor by the World Dance-O-Rama. In order to compete professionally, she had to leave Arthur Murray, which was a difficult decision. Her decision was rewarded when her professional dance career got off to a stellar start when she became the National East Coast Swing, Jack and Jill Champion in 1984. Throughout the 1990s, she was consistently ranked in the top six female competitors in West Coast Swing. She also had the honor of choreographing several PBS dance specials including Dancing through the Decades. She also opened her own business teaching dance in Southern California, and in 1993, twenty years ago, she started teaching in San Luis Obispo.  Linda continues to participate in some dance competitions, as do a number of her teachers.

Lessons through SLO Dance occur weekly on Wednesday and Thursday evenings at the Oddfellows’ Hall near downtown San Luis Obispo. Classes are offered either in a series of successive classes, or tailored to be a “drop in class.” Generally, two different classes are offered at the same time, but in different rooms, with a total of six classes offered each evening. SLO Dance also hosts monthly themed dance parties at the Oddfellows’ Hall. Linda has been doing local monthly “Dance Invasions” with her students at such dance-friendly venues as The Madonna Inn and Big Chill Night.  On a designated Friday or Saturday, people initially meet for a dance class, such as East Coast Swing or foxtrot, from 6:30 p.m. to 8:00 p.m., and then Linda and the dancers venture as a group to the planned Dance Invasion site. This is a way for dancers to try their new dance skills in the reassuring company of their dance classmates. In addition, SLO Dance offers free dance lessons a half hour prior to the start of the monthly Saturday SLO Blues Society concerts, which gives the person a chance to practice the new steps learned.

Kaye Bohler

Kaye Bohler

Linda especially enjoys opportunities for her students to dance to live music. She likes to schedule Dance Invasions with live bands which play danceable music. To that end, on May 11, 2013 she scheduled a Dance Invasion is scheduled for the dynamic, sassy blue’s performance of Kaye Bohler at the May SLO Blues Society concert. Kaye sings “blues-flavored soul and R&B reminiscent of Aretha Franklin and Tina Turner.” Kaye’s 2011 CD Like a Flower was named one of the best by Downbeat Magazine. When interviewed prior to the concert, Kaye stated she was eagerly looking forward to returning to play in San Luis Obispo County where she previously lived and performed. Her upcoming performance starts at 8:00 p.m. at the SLO Vets Hall in San Luis Obispo. Kaye also performs throughout California and other West Coast locales.

Cal Poly Sport Dance Team at Madonna Inn

Cal Poly Sport Dance Team at Madonna Inn

Cal Poly (California Polytechnic State University) in San Luis Obispo also has an active dance teaching and performance community. About ten years ago, Chris Ellwood started out taking lessons at Cal Poly, then became the President and eventually started a dance competition team. Even though he is no longer a student, he is the Director of the Cal Poly Ballroom Dance Club and Sports Team.  They provide weekly lessons at the Architecture Building for all ages; Chris noted that they have retirees who regularly take lessons. A variety of classes are taught including samba, waltz, paso doble, salsa, mambo, nightclub two-step, rumba, East and West Coast Swing, foxtrot, cha cha, and American and Argentine tango. Every February, Cal Poly Ballroom Dance Club offers an annual competition which attracts approximately 300 dancers. More info is available at  www.cpdancesport.org/comp. SLO Swing, also consisting of Cal Poly students, features Lindy Hop, which is sometimes referred to as the original swing dance. Lindy Hop started in Harlem in the 1920s and 1930s, which evolved from jazz into a fusion of dance mainly based on jazz, tap, breakaway, and Charleston. They sponsor a number of workshops and events including the Lindy Exchange.

Argentine Tango

Argentine Tango

Argentine tango is a sensual partner dance originated in the 1890s along the Rio de la Plata, the river separating Argentina and Uruguay.  It has become a popular dance worldwide. Laura Andes invites people to “come and share in my enthusiasm and passion for this spectacular and magical gift called Tango!” She noted that for a community this size that there is a very active tango community, typically with five or six tango events per week, including lessons, practicas, and more. Laura’s dedication to authentic Argentine tango led her to immerse herself in tango dance and culture by spending four weeks in Buenos Aires in 2009 and six weeks in 2011. By doing this, she became recognized as a regular at the Buenos Aires milongas, which allowed her to learn by dancing with true experts. She also enjoyed the opportunity to sample the incredibly bountiful selection of specialty tango shoes. Laura offers a class for students of all levels “by donation” the third Tuesday of each month.

Courtesy: www.slocoastjournal.com

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