Tag Archives: France

Barge in Burgundy: French cuisine, wine, scenery and history

6 May

After a fab train trip on Venice Simplon Orient Express Istanbul to Paris route last September (2023), I was searching for a new travel experience.  I had previously taken an overnight train from Paris to Venice, which was a disaster. With the success of the recent delightful, luxurious Orient Express trip, I dared to explore boat travel in Europe.

I was looking for a small boat that would offer daily ports of call where I could disembark and explore. My initial searches yielded many popular destinations with excursions, like castles and other iconic sites but they included many cities and historic sites that I had already seen. I find no reason to repeat visits to a castle or many of the other historic sites that I had previously explored.

I happened upon European Waterways tours, which occur on a comfortable barge, with scheduled stops at or near smaller towns, and only a small number of passengers. They describe their barge tours offering “a balanced daily blend of gentle cruising and fascinating experience.” I elected to take a week-long river barge tour of Burgundy with the major cities being Dijon and Beaune. Each barge cruise offers a tailored itinerary, for example, mine focused on gastronomy and the acclaimed wines of Burgundy.  Other options are tours which focus on outdoor experiences such hiking and biking, etc. Hot air balloon rides are offered on some tours.

Our tour departed by two comfortable vans around 1:00 p.m. (1300) on Sunday from a very centrally located hotel in Paris in which we could stay or there was an option to meet them there for the departure. To keep things simple, I chose to stay at their scheduled hotel departure location. The transport took about three and a half hours each way between Paris and our Burgundy location. Another tour with a different itinerary departed and returned on our same dates and times.

Our comfortable, well-appointed “barge” featured six good-sized rooms, with more space than I expected including the bathroom. Our group consisted of four couples, and two single women. One of the couples had done previous river barge tours, and thus had booked this for the latest one. All Americans, the people on our boat were amiable, interesting, intelligent, well-travelled, kind, with not a single negative comment or interaction with staff or fellow travellers. We had communal breakfasts, lunches and dinner around one table, and we elected to change seats at each meal for changing experiences. The French chef was spectacular in providing delicious regionally-inspired dishes, adjusting meals to the special dietary restrictions of two passengers. Stephan personally presented information about the impending meal, including ingredients, preparation and other details. Since I am a “foodie” I briefly spoke with him about his last work experiences which included Mozambique and Zanzibar (places I had travel connections with) and the latter where he had a restaurant until Covid struck.

Staff on the boat (two to one passengers to staff) were professional, courteous, and attentive, including noting individuals´ preferences and special needs of the passengers. All of the passengers thought it was a stellar experience. The only disappointment some of us had was that we had envisioned the boat would pull into the towns on our itinerary where we could disembark and wander at our leisure. None of the towns on our itinerary we went to were on our boat´s dockings, so we had to be transported by the two vans to those locales, led by our boat´s conceirge. From the barge´s docking site, there were riverside walking and biking trails, with bikes available from the boat.

Orient Express: Annual Istanbul to Paris

25 Nov

Orient Express bucket list: DONE. 

Following time-robbing Covid and a serious physical injury, I decided my first major trip in several years would be the Venice Simplon Orient Express (VSOE). At the time of my booking, this once-a-year historic, luxury train trip had two route options: Paris to Istanbul, or Istanbul to Paris. Even booking a year in advance, this special itinerary was already almost sold out. So I quickly booked one of the few remaining cabins for my middle son, Michael, and myself, both of us train aficionados. The only openings were for the Istanbul to Paris route, which in retrospect seems to have been the better option, as this route provided (to us) an increasing level of interest and sophistication. 

We arrived in Istanbul with two nights to explore the city (and, in the event of unexpected mishaps, to make sure we would not miss the train’s departure). I had been to Istanbul previously with my youngest son but enjoyed the fresh perspective of this more recent visit. We took in some of the usual tourist sights like the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, in addition to the Hippodrome. We also explored the Grand Bazaar, ending up at the restaurant of internationally-known chef Nusr-Et Steakhouse Etiler, a.k.a. “Salt Bae” – he now has 16 restaurants worldwide. We also lapped up all the varying different, interesting and delicious foods. My son found a great live music spot, Nardis Jazz Club, with a stellar vibraphonist. 

On Friday afternoon we eagerly headed to Istanbul’s train station, where we were greeted by festive décor and welcoming, costumed staff. The train was stunning and inviting. Being greeted by our future staff, especially the chefs, cooks, and sommeliers, led to even more heightened anticipation. While I usually only eat one midday meal daily, the food was so delectable and exquisite that I ate both the lunch and dinner meals. Meals onboard the train were consistently the best foods I have ever had in one place, and I have been to lots of fab places worldwide – from many three-star Michelin restaurants to delicious dives. 

Décor in the train’s shared areas was elegant, including the three themed dining cars and the bar/lounge car. In the lounge was a grand piano where live music was played much of the day and evening by a pianist who has been playing on the train for many years, and who was very responsive to the audience. 

The two-person cabins were surprisingly small. Even though the booking information indicated that there was only a sink in the cabin, and a shared water closet at the end of each carriage, we were nonetheless a bit surprised. There was no room in the cabin to store luggage and no closet; only a bar on which to hang your clothes for the current and next day or two. The always available stewards promptly retrieved our luggage any time we needed to pull out new attire and re-pack items no longer needed. In spite of its small size, the cabin was comfortable and sumptuous. A bottle of my favorite champagne was in the room upon arrival, and just about any beverage of your choice was readily available, along with cabin service during the trip. With the exception of the formal meal on the first day, a light but delicious breakfast was brought to the cabin every morning, and snacks could be ordered any time. 

We initially proceeded through Turkey and Bulgaria into Bucharest, where we had our first overnight hotel stay at the Athénée Palace Hilton, where we could enjoy a bath or shower, hotel amenities, and nearby attractions. That evening we were treated to a traditional Romanian feast at a Caru’ cu Bere, a gorgeous turn-of-the-century beer hall. Entertainment was provided in the form of live music and traditional dancers. 

The next day it was, of course, a pleasure to be back on board, with the delicious food, wine, new friends, and live piano music. We were particularly impressed with the sommelier. When I learned most the staff were from the Veneto region of Italy or nearby towns, I mentioned many of my prior travel locales in the area, not just Venice, but Marostica, Bassano del Grappa (home to grappa from the Italy/Austria area), Padua, Asolo, Verona, buildings designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio. Thus they were eager to recommend and serve us many fabulous (and some relatively rare) wines, mostly from the Veneto, but also other areas of Italy and France. 

After another overnight on the train, we arrived in Budapest, Hungary. In spite of the extensive damage the city suffered during WWII, it has been beautifully restored and is one of the most stunning cities I have ever seen (in my travels to over 40 countries). Interestingly, they have the second largest synagogue in the world, after New York City. Again, we also had free time to explore. In the evening, we were treated to a grand private event at the Museum of Fine Arts. The evening began with a champagne reception under the portico, followed by a private tour of a gallery by an art historian, a five-course meal, and best of all, a performance of arias by the first soprano of the Hungarian Opera. Afterward, we enjoyed another relaxing overnight stay, this time at the well-appointed, luxurious Four Seasons Hotel. 

Reluctant to leave Budapest, (I will be back), we boarded for the last leg of our train expedition. The 6th and final day of the trip, as we proceeded through the Champagne area of France, staff from Moët & Chandon boarded for a tasting to accompany our last lunch on board. They provided us several of their champagnes including Dom Perignon. I was never a fan of Dom Perignon, but hadn’t tried it for 40-ish years, so I tried it again: my opinion remained unchanged. My son and I both preferred the Moët & Chandon dry rosé, which one of the hosts said he also preferred. Unfortunately, they had no more of it on hand, but one of the enterprising VSOE wine staff brought us one from their ‘cellar.’ 

Stellar trip. Reluctant, but happy departure to our 2 days in Paris, where we enjoyed some of our favorite Parisian activities and dishes. Pricey but worth every penny. 

A Fulfilling, Less Stressful Life Running an Artsy Bar in Idyllic Altea Spain

7 Jun

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Sara and David at their artsy bar in Altea

In the same week, Sara Wilson lost her job as a staff writer for a major business magazine, and her husband, David Fernandez, lost his position as a private chef for socialites in New York City. They used that as a springboard to “re-examine our careers and quality of life.” They originally met in France, married and moved to California, then to New York to further their careers. Even though they liked certain aspects of living In New York, their lives were stressful, too money driven, and they didn’t get to spend much time together. Sara reflected, “Life gave us solution when we got laid off within a week of each other.” After considering their options, they initially decided to move to more relaxed Spain with the idea of opening a restaurant with David’s father. When that didn’t work out as anticipated, Sara and David started exploring other options, and eventually settled on opening a bar and eatery.

 

Sara reported, “My six years at the magazine job interviewing entrepreneurs helped us in the process of starting our business.” She added, “Ironically, I learned from people’s stories and their tips for success.” David had previously completed culinary training in Paris. She noted, “David is more of a visionary and risk-taker than I am, but it was our joint talents that helped us develop a successful business.”

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Picturesque and historic Altea

They spent several months exploring towns in the Costa Blanca area along the Mediterranean. They briefly looked at touristy Benidorm, but it did not possess the attractive and friendly location they were seeking. Then, “Unexpectedly we encountered a village paradise…called Altea,” recalled Sara. “We loved Altea’s stunning coastline, white pebble beaches and inviting and tasty restaurants lining the promenade.” But it was when they entered the old town, once a fortress, that they were really “awestruck. We loved its picturesque, narrow, pedestrian streets, punctuated by small artisan shops, that lead up to the hilltop church plaza.” Thus they set about on finding a place in the old town, known as Casco Antiguo.

 

Not long thereafter, they found an apartment and a place to start their dream business, a café/bar which was promoting various forms of art. “The rent was the cheapest we had found, and was the right size for just the two of us to run.” It consisted of two floors that had been transformed from an old house. We liked the fact that it had a mezzanine, a decent stock room, it was just one street down from the church plaza, and was on one of the most charming streets of Altea.” The business had been operating primarily as a sports bar, with a focus on the arts, as well, hence the name AlteArte. Importantly, “The bar already had a local clientele.”

They bought the business, but not the building. Sara stated, “We had been warned that it was important that the business have an existing business license. Just as we were ready to finalize the purchase, we learned that AlteArte did not have a business license.” The owner had applied for it and it was reportedly in process for a substantial period of time, (not unusual with the Spanish bureaucracy), but it had never been completed. Once the owner was aware that this unresolved issue was holding up the sale, the license was quickly approved. Sara and David speculated that the business license application was likely languishing with the local authorities, and that the owner, who was a local native, got the process completed quickly. Sara said, “It helped to buy a turn-key business, with an established clientele.” The prior owner, who sold them the business, wanted Sara and David to be success, and was supportive in a variety of helpful ways.

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Typical evening with friends at AlteArte

Sara and David “wanted to change the ambience to a cozier environment, which we did by adding tables and changing some of the décor.” They later hung their now iconic multi-colored bicycle upside down from the ceiling, and added some other kitschy design elements. They provide Wi-Fi, and show major soccer matches (“fútbol”).   “By changing things, we lost some of the former clients but gained others.” During their first year in business, they were often complimented on their tasty mojitos, so they decided to make that a focus. They setup an increasingly growing mojito menu, and identified AlteArte as a “mojiteria,”which set it apart from the other bars. They also make “nojitos,” alcohol-free mojitos. Adapting to client demonstrated preferences, “We abandoned our early idea of making it a coffee-centric business, instead focusing on our excellent selection and preparation of teas,” in addition to other typical bar beverages. Although their service focus is primarily on beverages, they also have a small selection of tapas and quesadillas, the latter being a popular, but rare item in Altea.

 

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Casco Antiguo in Altea

Asked if they have encountered any problems or challenges in setting up their business, they reported initially the neighbors complained about noise and the tables and chairs they had placed on the stairs adjacent to their building. “Eventually, we were able to make peace with the neighbors, after convincing them that we would keep the noise down, and not cause them any problems.” During the slow time of year, they do minor renovations to AlteArte, but they noted it is hard to find qualified people who complete the work in a timely fashion. After deciding to start their business in Altea, Sara quickly began learning Spanish, something she felt essential in running their business.

 

The owner of their building had been renting out the top floor to various people as a shop with touristic and artisan items, but after a series of several failed businesses there, he asked Sara and David if they were interested in adding the top floor to AlteArte. “We decided to take this opportunity to expand. The top floor is primarily for special events and gallery exhibits, as well as weekly intercambio (Spanish English language exchange.)” AlteArte exhibits “one or two artists’ works each month.” The middle floor is an inviting area with pillows and populated with board games.

“The customers, new and old, shaped AlteArte’s atmosphere by natural evolution.” They have about an equal percentage of local and expat customers, with “most ex-pats in this area of the Costa Blanca area of Spain being Scandinavian.” In the beginning, most of their clientele came through word of mouth and Facebook. After opening the gallery on the third level, we reached out to local newspapers and magazines to promote those events.”

After they first opened in February 2010, Sara and David ran the business by themselves. “During our second and third summer, we hired our first employees. In our fourth year of operation, we hired Emily as our first full time employee. She had been a patron, and she had a good work track record of seven years at one local restaurant.” They emphasized it is very important to check out the reliability and work history of potential employees in Spain as there are generous laws favoring them, such as being allowed substantial sick leave just after being hired. A few months later, they hired another young woman, Ampy, full-time. Both employees are friendly, competent, and able to communicate with the clients regardless of what language they speak. “We pay them a little more than the typical local wage, and uncommonly, we also give them one day off a week including during the busy summer months.”

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Sara and David inside AlteArte

When asked about other start-up or ongoing expenses or requirements, “there was an initial food safety course, basic business insurance, and nominal annual taxes.” They have not had any tax liability in the United States based on their Spanish net income. “We recommend using a gestoria,” which is a person whose task is to deal with the idiosyncrasies of Spanish government departments, for paying complex fees and taxes. “We receive an annual visit from the health department to check for correct refrigerator temperature and proper sanitation.” With regard to promoting AlteArte, “We have done some marketing by advertising our business in local tourist maps. Because we are in the Old Town, which is a steep, historically-protected area, we are not required to have handicap accessible facilities.” Sara reported, “AlteArte has allowed us to cover all of our expenses including the luxury of having two employees” which affords Sara the opportunity to spend long visits with her family in California. This year she has had two separate one-month visits with her family. AlteArte has given David, now 40, and Sara, 37, “a more comfortable, and significantly less stressful lifestyle than at our prior high pressure jobs, and the opportunity to spend more quality time together.”

 

When asked what advice they would give to others considering opening a business in Spain, they recommend, “Be patient and committed.” They said, “One cannot expect to open a business just for a summer, and turn a profit.” They also stated it is important to understand the demand for the type of business one is considering, and the required permits if starting from scratch. “It is also essential to have enough capital for start-up costs, slow periods, and unexpected expenses.” Sara said, “I’m kind of glad I didn’t know before we started how many businesses end up closing down.”

Now celebrating over six years of operation, AlteArte, is a favorite with local ex-pats, Spaniards, and international travelers. They feature monthly art exhibits by local artists; a book club for which Sara often arranges for the author to be present in person or remotely; live music; weekly Spanish-English language exchange (intercambio); movie nights, craft, drama and dance workshops, cooking competitions, and many more. Asked about her most cherished memory, Sara quickly reported it was when director Eugenio Mira, an Altean native, chose to premier his movie Grand Piano at AlteArte, and afterwards had a question and answer session.