Orient Express: Annual Istanbul to Paris

Orient Express bucket list: DONE. 

Following time-robbing Covid and a serious physical injury, I decided my first major trip in several years would be the Venice Simplon Orient Express (VSOE). At the time of my booking, this once-a-year historic, luxury train trip had two route options: Paris to Istanbul, or Istanbul to Paris. Even booking a year in advance, this special itinerary was already almost sold out. So I quickly booked one of the few remaining cabins for my middle son, Michael, and myself, both of us train aficionados. The only openings were for the Istanbul to Paris route, which in retrospect seems to have been the better option, as this route provided (to us) an increasing level of interest and sophistication. 

We arrived in Istanbul with two nights to explore the city (and, in the event of unexpected mishaps, to make sure we would not miss the train’s departure). I had been to Istanbul previously with my youngest son but enjoyed the fresh perspective of this more recent visit. We took in some of the usual tourist sights like the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, in addition to the Hippodrome. We also explored the Grand Bazaar, ending up at the restaurant of internationally-known chef Nusr-Et Steakhouse Etiler, a.k.a. “Salt Bae” – he now has 16 restaurants worldwide. We also lapped up all the varying different, interesting and delicious foods. My son found a great live music spot, Nardis Jazz Club, with a stellar vibraphonist. 

On Friday afternoon we eagerly headed to Istanbul’s train station, where we were greeted by festive décor and welcoming, costumed staff. The train was stunning and inviting. Being greeted by our future staff, especially the chefs, cooks, and sommeliers, led to even more heightened anticipation. While I usually only eat one midday meal daily, the food was so delectable and exquisite that I ate both the lunch and dinner meals. Meals onboard the train were consistently the best foods I have ever had in one place, and I have been to lots of fab places worldwide – from many three-star Michelin restaurants to delicious dives. 

Décor in the train’s shared areas was elegant, including the three themed dining cars and the bar/lounge car. In the lounge was a grand piano where live music was played much of the day and evening by a pianist who has been playing on the train for many years, and who was very responsive to the audience. 

The two-person cabins were surprisingly small. Even though the booking information indicated that there was only a sink in the cabin, and a shared water closet at the end of each carriage, we were nonetheless a bit surprised. There was no room in the cabin to store luggage and no closet; only a bar on which to hang your clothes for the current and next day or two. The always available stewards promptly retrieved our luggage any time we needed to pull out new attire and re-pack items no longer needed. In spite of its small size, the cabin was comfortable and sumptuous. A bottle of my favorite champagne was in the room upon arrival, and just about any beverage of your choice was readily available, along with cabin service during the trip. With the exception of the formal meal on the first day, a light but delicious breakfast was brought to the cabin every morning, and snacks could be ordered any time. 

We initially proceeded through Turkey and Bulgaria into Bucharest, where we had our first overnight hotel stay at the Athénée Palace Hilton, where we could enjoy a bath or shower, hotel amenities, and nearby attractions. That evening we were treated to a traditional Romanian feast at a Caru’ cu Bere, a gorgeous turn-of-the-century beer hall. Entertainment was provided in the form of live music and traditional dancers. 

The next day it was, of course, a pleasure to be back on board, with the delicious food, wine, new friends, and live piano music. We were particularly impressed with the sommelier. When I learned most the staff were from the Veneto region of Italy or nearby towns, I mentioned many of my prior travel locales in the area, not just Venice, but Marostica, Bassano del Grappa (home to grappa from the Italy/Austria area), Padua, Asolo, Verona, buildings designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio. Thus they were eager to recommend and serve us many fabulous (and some relatively rare) wines, mostly from the Veneto, but also other areas of Italy and France. 

After another overnight on the train, we arrived in Budapest, Hungary. In spite of the extensive damage the city suffered during WWII, it has been beautifully restored and is one of the most stunning cities I have ever seen (in my travels to over 40 countries). Interestingly, they have the second largest synagogue in the world, after New York City. Again, we also had free time to explore. In the evening, we were treated to a grand private event at the Museum of Fine Arts. The evening began with a champagne reception under the portico, followed by a private tour of a gallery by an art historian, a five-course meal, and best of all, a performance of arias by the first soprano of the Hungarian Opera. Afterward, we enjoyed another relaxing overnight stay, this time at the well-appointed, luxurious Four Seasons Hotel. 

Reluctant to leave Budapest, (I will be back), we boarded for the last leg of our train expedition. The 6th and final day of the trip, as we proceeded through the Champagne area of France, staff from Moët & Chandon boarded for a tasting to accompany our last lunch on board. They provided us several of their champagnes including Dom Perignon. I was never a fan of Dom Perignon, but hadn’t tried it for 40-ish years, so I tried it again: my opinion remained unchanged. My son and I both preferred the Moët & Chandon dry rosé, which one of the hosts said he also preferred. Unfortunately, they had no more of it on hand, but one of the enterprising VSOE wine staff brought us one from their ‘cellar.’ 

Stellar trip. Reluctant, but happy departure to our 2 days in Paris, where we enjoyed some of our favorite Parisian activities and dishes. Pricey but worth every penny. 

Tags: Bulgaria, Excellentservice, Fabstaff, Fivestarcuisine, Foodporn, France, Greatwines, Historicaltrain, Hungary, Istanbul, jazz, Meze, OrientExpress, OrientExpressIstanbultoParis, Romania, Traintravel, VeniceSimplonOrientExpress