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Adventures in Dining in Altea Spain

13 Mar
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Tapa with egg and garnish 13 Mar ’15

“Pigs ears?” he asked in Spanish, apparently to be sure I knew what I was ordering when I pointed to one of the tapas trays. I admit I wasn’t 100 percent sure what they were when I ordered them, but every tapa I had ever eaten at beachside Fronton Playa in Altea (Spain) was spectacular. I grew up eating my fair share of offal, so I am game for trying just about anything. On this particular visit, I decided to order a couple of tapas, so I could get more than the typical small tapa bites. Along with the pig ears, I had some small breaded and fried octopus “pulpo” tentacles, which were tender, which is not always the case at many local eateries. The friendly owner reminds me of Danny Devito. On most visits, I order a “vino,” which is accompanied by a creative, tasty tapa, which is included in the inexpensive 1,50 €  IMG_0392

 

 

 

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Valentina in Casco Antiguo

 

Valentina is another of my favorite tapas places where I have had interesting food forays. Andrea and his family hail from Puglia (Italy), but have lived here in Spain for many years. Andrea’s girlfriend, who is the chef, makes creative and delectable food. On one occasion, a darling two-year old girl repeatedly chanted, “Caracoles,” as she waited for the small snails to be prepared and served. She ate them like a pro. On several occasions, Andrea has brought me a tapa that he would not serve to everyone. One memorable tapa was something with a texture similar to tofu but with a meaty taste, saying he knew I would eat it. When I inquired as to what it was, he smiled and replied coagulated chicken blood. My son, Robbie, an executive chef in at Belcampo, a well-reviewed restaurant in Los Angeles specializing in their own humanely and sustainably raised animals, asked me to find out how it was made. 20140522_201050On one of the occasions I ordered something from the menu I had “Milhojas de pulpo y gula del Norte,” octopus with baby eels.

 

 

Dining in Spain is almost always a great adventure. I am an avid fish and seafood lover, and there is seldom a day that goes by when I haven’t had several of the many creatures available in the local Mediterranean waters. I am constantly trying new items from the sea including things we may have one of in California, like calamari. Here the calamari are large rings, about the size of onion rings, and often cooked by breading and frying. I find them too tough. Then there are “chopitos,” whole baby calamari with ink sacks intact, which are best when fried with a light almost-panko like crispness. Sepia is a cousin of sorts of calamari, which is larger and thicker, and is often grilled and served with a green “marinera” sauce, mariner’s sauce, not to be confused with the Italian tomato sauce, “marinara.” I have found some foods to not be worth the effort involved in trying to eat them. After a recent intense Zumba class, I went to a local tapas bar, regularly patronized by cordial smoking, drinking “abuelas” (grandmas) and their grandbabies, (and I mean no disrespect but it is very different than when I lived in San Luis Obispo county, California, where they were the first place to outlaw indoor smoking or smoking near food service.) At the café, I was told the grill had been turned off, but the fryer was working, so I ordered “patatas bravas” (spicy fried potatoes, which are not spicy if someone eats habanero sauce like I do), and fried fish. Note to self: check the type of fish before ordering. They were sardines and other equally small fish, which with my knife skills, yielded few consumable morsels. And the incredible number and quality of bivalves! Almejas (clams), berberechos (smaller clam-like content, with a scallop taste), the itsy bitsy tellinas (too much work), razor clams, mussels, oysters, gooseneck barnacles, and more.IMG_0380

 

The grocery markets are filled with seemingly endless displays of fish and seafood: fresh, frozen, and canned (which are viewed as another great way to access seafood as opposed to American’s frequent opinions that canned food is of suspect quality.) For a foodie like me, the grocery and fresh food markets are intoxicating with their fresh and novel ingredients. As I was photographing the vast displays of fresh fish and seafood at a regular local grocery market, Mercadona, a female fishmonger admonished me from taking more photos. So here I will include a partial sample of the store’s offerings, and the selection of frozen and canned fish and seafood is even larger. (If you read Spanish and the words don’t look familiar, that is because the official language here in the Valenciana Community is “Valenciana,” but more about that surprise to me at another time.) If you look at the trays of fresh items from the sea, it is apparent that many home cooks are adept at using fresh whole fish and other types of seafood.IMG_0378

 

quaileggsI thought I hit the jackpot when I recently walked into a local market and found a beautiful dozen little quail eggs, for 0,90 €, less than the American equivalent of $1.00. On today’s cooking television shows, they showed how to make livers with “sangre” (blood) over a fire in the hearth, and “coda de cordero,” typical recipes from other parts of Spain. The food options here are inspirational, and I am eager for my two boxes of kitchen cooking supplies to arrive here from my former home in California. Those are the only things I had shipped here, (along with a few family and travel) mementos, which speaks to my priorities.

You can find my many restaurant, as well as other reviews, on Trip Advisor, as well as my map of the hundreds of places I have travelled.

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View walking home after tapas today

 

 

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Why I Left “The Happiest Place in America” to move to Spain

6 Mar

 

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Hallmark photo of Altea

When I told people of my intention to abandon my lucrative professional career as a forensic psychologist in California and leave the San Luis Obispo area to move to Spain, I got one of two reactions. They either thought I was nuts or they were envious. In either case, they asked why I would leave the area that has been touted by Oprah Winfrey, National Geographic, U.S. News and numerous others, to be the best place to live in the United States, if not the world.

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Casco Antiguo (Old Town) Altea

My decision was based on a combination of factors that were sometimes difficult for me to explain, or perhaps more aptly, for them to understand. The quality of life in my small, picturesque beachside town of Altea (consistently rated as one of the top 10 most beautiful villages in Spain) far surpasses the stress and money-driven culture to which I had become accustomed. Life here and in many parts of Spain are driven first and foremost by family. One commonly sees multi-generational families strolling along the beachfront esplanade, dining or drinking together (often until very late at night), and fathers and grandfathers confidently and lovingly caring for the family babies and children (with no women in sight.) Spanish people work to live and generally are not consumed with a desire for wealth or material things. Besides family, friends, food and fun are valued. It didn’t take me long to appreciate this simpler, but more fulfilling existence.

Before I moved to Spain, I had a busy, in retrospect, too busy, career as a forensic psychologist specializing in the evaluation of and testimony as an expert on Sexually Violent Predators. As my third and youngest son was approaching high school graduation, I realized I was tired of working so hard to maintain our upscale lifestyle including our 3500 square foot home on a French-inspired fully landscaped acre, an expensive car, and the cost associated with living in a highly desirable area. After being the sole breadwinner and parent to my three boys for over 25 years, I wanted a change to a simpler, better quality life. For me, that meant Spain.

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Fish with leek sauce at local beachside restaurant

My wanderlust had led me to travel to almost 40 countries, and while I had frequently fantasized about moving to Italy, France or Spain, I never really thought I would do it. When I reminded my youngest son of my plan to sell the house when the youngest graduated high school, he was less than pleased and would have liked to stay forever. The month before he was to graduate, I put the house on the market and I had accepted an offer only six days later. I felt pangs of guilt and he was none too happy to have to negotiate final exams, senior graduation activities, and moving all at the same time. Once I had put the house for sale, I interviewed three companies for my estate sale and selected the most experienced with the lowest commission rates. I sold everything from the pool table, to the grand piano and every bit of furniture, except the items I had promised to my sons and the few pieces of kitchenware and children’s mementos I planned to ship to Spain.

View from my place after sunset

View from my place after sunset

Even though I had previously travelled to Spain, it was to larger cities, not the type of quaint village I so desired. So I took the unorthodox approach of diligently researching all of my requirements on the internet which included a picturesque village on the Mediterranean, temperate weather, music and dance events, and no need for a car. Thus when I arrived in Altea, it was the first time I had been there. It was more beautiful and magical in person than photos could portray. At the top of the hill is the Altea’s iconic cathedral with its royal blue domes decorated with white ceramic tiles. The plaza on which it sits is the site for many of Altea’s festivals. Below, the white buildings cascade down from the top of the hill, in a manner reminiscent of a Greek village.

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View of Calpe from Altea beach at sunset

While there are many things I love about Spain, as anyone who has lived there knows, the bureaucracy is atrocious. If you need to conduct any official Spanish governmental business, expect to have to return multiple times to accomplish even a small task, and be prepared to be given different instructions each time. A case in point was my visa, which I did eventually receive after negotiating the inconsistent, and sometimes impossible, requirements. However, the details of that endeavor would take a whole, separate article!

Concurrently, I began diligent, daily practice of Castilian Spanish, as I only spoke basic Mexican Spanish. One of the things that attracted me to Spain was that I would be able to speak the language by the time I was ready to move there in an estimated year and a half while getting my affairs in order. I was in for a big surprise when I found out the primary language in Altea is Valenciana, similar to Catalan. Once in Spain, I readily made friends with locals, from Spain and many other countries, and honed my Spanish with practice each evening over drinks and tapas. I found it far easier to make friends in Spain than where I had been living in California for the past nearly 30 years. When I would head out for my evening at one of my customary places, I was typically greeted with, “¿Vino blanco?,” as the friendly waiters anticipated my usual white wine. A decent glass of house wine, white, red or rosé, is typically around 2€, and sometimes includes a tapa; beer is even less and these prices are at oceanfront spots frequented by locals and tourists, so prices can be even lower if one goes to places where there are primarily locals. While enjoying my wine and the view of the turquoise Mediterranean, I sometimes end up conversing with someone, and often we end up exchanging contact information or agreeing to meet on another occasion.

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View of Altea church at dusk

I wanted to test drive my town and neighborhood before renting or buying. I first stayed at a vacation rental I found on the web. This allowed me to live in Casco Antiguo, (old town,) like a local, and decide which particular area met my needs before settling on a permanent spot. In the northern Costa Blanca where I live, there are one or two bedroom apartments, some furnished, for as low as 300 Euros, which is currently about $340. Less expensive rentals are available away from the beach and the historic old town or if you go to the towns more inland.

Meals can be an incredibly good deal, as well. Many restaurants offer a “Menu del Dia” from which you can order two courses, and get bread with alioli (the Spanish version of aioli), a beverage (wine, beer, soda or bottled water), and either a dessert or coffee generally for around 10 to 13€. I was surprised that I quickly adapted to the Spanish tradition of having a larger, late lunch, and then later skipping dinner or having a tapa. This is very economical and resulted in the unexpected benefit of losing weight.

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Beachside dining with Calpe in the distance

fill my days with Zumba and other dance classes,  a typical late and long Spanish lunch (almost always eating one of the many delicious fish or seafood choices), taking my dog to play at the new dog park, going home for a siesta or household tasks, and then heading out for an evening drink where I would meet up with friends to talk and dance, often well past midnight. On Sundays my Cuban friends and I head for live Cuban music at a bar which has a vibrant international crowd. My dream of a simple, fulfilling life has been realized.

Stay tuned for interesting and fun accounts of my time in Altea and beyond.

 

 

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Best Family Vacations: Ojai

20 Nov
The Pink Moment

The Pink Moment
Courtesy: Ojai Valley Inn

We all hush at the magical “Pink Moment” when the sky to the east over the Topa Topa Mountains creates brilliant shades of pink as the sun sets in Ojai, California. This is one of the few places in the world where people can see this phenomenon due to the east-west orientation of the mountains.  Ojai is about 30 miles southeast of Santa Barbara or 90 miles north of LAX.

Ojai is one of my favorite places for a short stay with the family. We love the historic Spanish Colonial Ojai Valley Inn and Spa where I find the relaxing, casually elegant ambience evokes immediate relaxation. I can be perfectly content just soaking up the resort’s beautiful grounds, gardens and golf course, but we also enjoy the wide variety of activities for both adults and children on site, and in the town of Ojai. The Inn is pet-friendly and we enjoyed being able to take our dog with us.

I love the Mind and Body Studio located in the Spa Ojai building where they offer many different classes throughout the day, such as Pilates, several types of yoga, water exercise in the spa’s pool, stretching, cardio, spinning, Qi Gong, sometimes dance, and others. The Inn also offers classes for the mind such as meditation, physical wellness, and art classes at the Artist Cottage and Apothecary.

Ojai Valley Inn

Ojai Valley Inn
Courtesy: Ojai Valley Inn

The resort has a premier championship golf course, with excellent professional lessons and a sports psychologist to help with the important mental part of your skills. Upon arrival, staff take your golf clubs to the clubhouse where they clean your golf shoes and ready your clubs for your scheduled round of golf. Because it is such a popular course, reservations are recommended. The Inn’s storied tennis history dates back to the late 19th century and boasts being one of the top tennis facilities in a hotel or resort in the United States. Professional tennis instruction is available.

Outdoor Firepit

Outdoor Fire pit
Courtesy: Ojai Valley Inn

There are myriad activities that can be done alone, as a couple or a family including hiking, biking, basketball, fishing, softball, volleyball and tennis. Camp Oak offers creative, stimulating and fun themed half-day and full-day activities for five to twelve year-olds.  From 8 to 9 a.m., Acorn Hour at Camp Ojai hosts bonding for parents and their two to four year-old children by doing crafts or storytelling.  During the summer, there are complimentary movies to watch while floating in the main pool. Free popcorn is also provided.  The resort will arrange for horseback rides nearby that are suitable for the ages and skills of the riders; we have had fantastic experiences doing this.   A walk into downtown Ojai offers an opportunity to explore the inviting historic downtown area. Make sure to check out Bart’s Books, which is the largest independently-owned outdoor bookstore in the U.S.

In town, we like to have dinner at Azu, where they have Spanish- and Mediterranean-inspired comfort food.  They have many tapas style small dishes, as well as creative, tasty entrees. `The Ranch House requires a short but worthwhile drive for gourmet award-winning cuisine in a romantic atmosphere that has streams and lush plants.

There are several great spots to eat at the Ojai Valley Inn. The Oak Grill offers outdoor and indoor dining with the best Cobb salad I have ever had. Jimmy’s Pub is a good, casual après golf place for snacks, burgers, and drinks. More health conscious cuisine is available at the Spa’s restaurant, Café Verde. Maravilla is the Inn’s signature restaurant where they serve excellent, seasonally-inspired cuisine with locally-sourced produce featuring steaks, chops and seafood. The wine selection is excellent and the restaurant’s ambience is warm and inviting. Whenever we have been there on a week-end, in the evenings we have enjoyed entertaining live jazz in the lounge just in front of Maravilla while sitting near the warmth of the fireplace.

THE KINDNESS OF SICILIAN STRANGERS

13 Oct
Map of Grotte

Map of Grotte

After travelling over 6000 miles to Grotte, Sicily to find my fiancé’s paternal homeland, we eagerly approached the Zaffuto tractor and farm supply store in hopes of finding relatives who shared the same last name. However, we didn’t anticipate that the store would be closed for the daily afternoon “riposo,” the Italian equivalent of siesta which occurs from noon to three.

En route to the tractor store, we drove through the small town of Grotte, (near the Agrigento Greek Temples in southern Sicily,) where we noticed that almost all of the shops were closed. So it should have been no surprise that the tractor store located on the outskirts of town was also closed.

Zaffuto tractor and farm supply store

Zaffuto tractor and farm supply store

A middle-aged woman emerged from the house next door saying something in Italian that we couldn’t understand. With our hands we managed to signal we were looking for the owners, who shared my finacé’s last name of Zaffuto. The woman raised three fingers signifying the time when the store would re-open, and then generously invited us into her home, which was on the second floor above the home’s garage.

Upstairs the home was decorated with traditional Italian furniture and antiques. She pointed to the chairs around the dining room table for us to be seated.  She served us beverages and a light snack while we continued to try to communicate with each other. Eventually, below we saw the men returning from their riposo, re-opening the store.

We said “grazie mille” and “ciao” to our hospitable hostess and proceeded to the store. With their chiseled good looks, well-coiffed black hair, designer sunglasses, and stylish clothes, the men looked like Italian models rather than workers in a tractor and farm supply store. None of the Zaffuto men spoke English, something not uncommon in small towns in Italy. Fortunately there was one man there who spoke some English because he had previously lived in Canada. As we attempted to exchange family histories, the men prepared and served us expertly-prepared espresso coffee from their commercial-sized machine.

Zaffuto men: Store owners on left and right

Zaffuto men: Store owners on left and right

As customers entered the store and needed assistance, we decided it was time to leave. We exchanged “il balecetto,” a kiss on each cheek, and bid our handsome hosts, “Arriverderci.”

Quest for Culatello

9 Oct
Culatelli di Zibello Source: Wikipedia Commons

Culatelli di Zibello
Source: Wikipedia Commons

I felt like a criminal when I smuggled the non-permitted item onto my flight from Bologna to Paris, and the next day from Paris back to Los Angeles. But I didn’t travel that far to be stripped of my prized Culatello di Zibello, considered by many salumi lovers to be the King of charcuterie. Better than its cousin prosciutto, culatello has an intense, complex salty, sweet and musty flavor with a supple texture.

Culatello, which literally means “little ass” is made from a single muscle from the hind leg of a pork. After the muscle is trimmed and the bone and skin are removed, it is massaged and salted. It is then encased in a cleaned pig bladder, and then typically hung from the ceiling of a 500 year old musty cave. This aging process can be from 16 to 18 months, or even as much of 30 months.

Culatello di Zibello is made in the Emilia-Romagna area of Italy near the foggy Po River area. The Emilia-Romagna area is best known for its prosciutto, Modena balsamic vinegar, Parmesan cheese, and the birthplace of tortellini (one legend is that they were inspired by Venus’ navel.) After a food- and music-centric week in Venice, I took the train to the Bologna region in search of food nirvana.

My first night in Bologna I dined at the historical Papagallo, of course ordering tortellini, as I always try to order the most “typical” food of the region I am visiting. Bologna is a vibrant, bustling college town, great for wandering under the porticos, and exploring the many historical and artistic sites. But my real quest was to try as much of the local fare that is thought to be amongst the best in Italy.

To that end, after a few days exploring Bologna, I decided to take the train to the nearby towns of Modena and Parma. (If taking the train from Bologna, make sure to be on the right platform.) The handsome ticket seller at the train station flirtatiously questioned my intention of seeing both towns in one day, but as it was my final full day in the area, I was determined to sample both. I typically just wander the streets and see what eateries invite me to dine, whether inexpensive local spots or upscale. In Modena, for lunch I found Hosteria Vecchia, which featured the typical cuisine of Modena. The restaurant was bustling with local businessmen, blue collar workers, and couples, all enjoying the fantastic fare.

Salumeria Garibaldi Source: Flickr

Salumeria Garibaldi
Source: Flickr

After buying my aceto balsamico tradizionale (Modena balsamic vinegar aged at least 12 years), I continued on my food quest to Parma, now in pursuit of culatello. Again, preferring to let serendipity take its course, I wandered around Parma’s old town centre. I found cafes, and shops but not any salumeria. Dissappointed, I headed back to the train at dusk when I saw the illuminated Salumeria Garibaldi welcoming me. I managed to put in my order just before they closed. I chose three types of salumi including the culatello.

Back at my room in the elegant Grand Hotel Majestic Gia Baglioni, I ordered some aged Parmesan, a dry Lambrusco wine and proceeded to savor my culinary finds. I couldn’t eat all of the culatello, but there was no way I was going to throw it away.  I decided to take it with me, so my son, who was meeting back up with me in Paris, could try it with me. To that end, I wrapped the pungent culatello in multiple layers of plastic so hopefully it would not be detected before boarding the plane in Bologna and again in Paris. Once safely en route from Paris to Los Angeles, we devoured the sublime culatello, apparently without detection.

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WEEK-END IN PASO ROBLES CALIFORNIA

8 Aug
courtesy sloballoon.com

courtesy sloballoon.com

Soaring slowly over the alluvial golden hills punctuated by mature oak trees and orderly rows of grapevines in a hot air balloon can be a transcendent, once in a lifetime experience. This is just one of the many offerings stay in the bucolic wine country in northern San Luis Obispo County.  Every month has its unique activities, so determining travel dates warrant consideration of when the weather and activities meet the needs of the types of travelers: families, couples, friends or singles.

If arriving on Friday, head for the Paso Robles City Park for the weekly 2013 summer concert series which occurs through August 26, starting at 5:30. Watch the concert from one of the restaurants that have outdoor seating just across from the park: Reservations can be made for patio seating just across from the park at Berry Hill Bistro, Estrella, La Cosecha, or Chico’s or take a chance without a reservation at Artisan or Villa Creek. Food and beverages are also sold at the concert. Bring a sweater or jacket as it sometimes quickly cools down in the evening.

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La Consecha charcuterie plate

“Paso” now boasts many of the best restaurants in the county. One of the newest, La Cosecha, (Spanish for harvest) Restaurant + Bar serves Spanish, Central and South American fare.  This casual eatery has the feel of a casual, friendly ambience of a neighborhood watering hole. They are open daily for lunch and dinner, with options of indoor regular or tall table seating, a communal table for large parties, and outdoor patio seating. Some of the highlights are the braised bone marrow appetizer, Iberico ham with figs, Honduran-style empanadas, Black cod mofongo and the delectable paella of the day. The bar stocks Spanish sherries, food-inspired wines and beers, and has a dedicated mixologist who concocts seasonal craft cocktails such as the seasonal caipirinha made with Brazilian chaçaca, St. Germaine, limes and blueberries.

Il Cortile

Il Cortile

Honduran-born Chef Santos MacDonal and his welcoming wife, Carole, also own one of Paso’s other best eateries, Il Cortile Ristorante, which specializes in rustic Italian food in their upscale, but comfortable restaurant. Dinner specialties include such creative appetizers as grilled octopus, crostini porchetta, pan-roasted quail with prisciutto-filled tortellini, and a bountiful selection of mozzarella cheeses.  Santos’ homemade pastas and, when available, pork osso bucco, are house favorites. Just a half block from the city park, they are open for dinner daily from 5:00 p.m.

Artisan serves locally-sourced, creative American Fare. Now open daily starting at 11 a.m., Artisan is now at their new location, a stylish modern building, just across from the city park. The Kobayashi brothers have added an outdoor dog-friendly seating area, a full bar with some new menu items such as pizza. Chef Chris has a knack for unique combinations that wow the palate such as duck confit salad, spinach, pt. reyes blue, smoked almonds, “fried egg;” abalone tostada, avocado, pork belly carnitas; hanger steak, asparagus, black trumpets, bacon tater tots; and Alaskan halibut, burnt flour orecchiette, peas, morels, green garlic. For a list of best restaurants in Paso Robles, including information about type of cuisine, which meals they are open, patios and whether those seats can be reserved, wine or full bar, family-friendly, and dog-friendly.

D'Anbino Winery and Tasting Room

D’Anbino Winery and Tasting Room

Paso offers an array of live musical and entertainment venues that appeal to varied interests. D’Anbino Cellars, a short walk from downtown, is one of the premier musical venues in the county, attracting local and nationally-renowned musicians who perform varied styles including jazz, bluegrass, blues, rock, funk, soul, and Great American Songbook. Their website provides information about events which include both afternoon and evening entertainment.  Presently, they offer salsa lessons Friday evenings from 6:30 to 7:30 p.m. with an opportunity afterward to practice new moves. During the warm months, the Pony Club, the wine bar in the Hotel Cheval, offers nightly solo or duo artists which start in the early evening on Friday and Saturday, and at 5:00 p.m. Sundays. Listen on the outdoor patio under the shade of the large shade tree. Other local bars offering live entertainment include The Pour House, Pappy McGregor’s, and The Cattleman’s Lounge in The Paso Robles Inn. All of these music venues offer snacks or full meals. Also, many of the Paso Robles area wineries feature live music, especially in the summer. Vina Robles Winery recently opened their 3300 seat “boutique amphitheatre” which attracts big name acts like the Moody Blues, Darius Rucker, Tony Bennett, B.B. King, and George Lopez.

Festivals provide the perfect opportunity to experience local culture and food. The “First Saturdays: Wine and the Arts” occurs monthly from 5 to 8 p.m. They feature a wide array of art including mixed media, oil painting, jewelry, photography and quilting, with several wineries as participating venues. At the annual Olive Festival, this year on August 17, there are a number of entertaining activities for adults and children. There are many other family friendly activities in Paso Robles, as well.

 

Paso Robles City Park

Paso Robles City Park

One of the more popular festivals is the Classic Car Show Weekend, which occurs Labor Day week-end. It features members’ cars dating back to 1923 which are displayed at the car cruise and show. Starting Sunday September 29th at 3:00 p.m., The North SLO County Concert Association starts its 65th season, which will include 1930’s era vocalist diva Dawn Lambeth, a band featuring brass instruments, chamber music, and a vocal jazz quintet.

The celebrated Harvest Wine Weekend, October 18-20, visitors can experience the grape harvest up close; summon your inner Lucy for grape-stomping or enjoy more leisurely tours of wineries, many of which offer fantastic winemaker dinners and/or live music. The Paderewski Festival, scheduled for November 7-10, honors Ignancy Jan Paderewski, composer, virtuoso pianist, humanitarian, orator, and the first Prime Minister of Independent Poland after World War I. He visited Paso Robles on many occasions between 1914 and 1939, and owned over 2800 acres where he planted Zinfandel grapes, almonds and fruit trees. The festival features a variety of concerts, a piano master class, documentary, youth competition winners’ recital, and lecture. Traveller beware: some festivals and events can be very crowded, so take that into account when making plans.

Hotel Cheval

The best downtown lodging is the 16 room European-inspired, boutique Hotel Cheval. The cozy rooms have plush towels, quality bedding and many other amenities. Welcome cookies, bedtime organic chocolates and breakfast are included. Options for rooms include fireplaces, outdoor patios, sundecks, and for dog owners, pet beds and food and water dishes.   The inviting central outdoor patio has a fireplace that visitors can stoke. The historic Paso Robles Inn first opened in 1891 and is the only hotel in the area that still offers thermal hot springs in guest rooms. The comfortable rooms are family and dog-friendly. The outdoor area includes a large grassy area, Koi pond, brook and flower garden. Ask for the “locals rate.” Although not in downtown Paso, Tuscan-inspired La Bellasera Hotel and Suites has luxury suites which include fireplace, whirlpool and patios. The outdoor pool also has a fireside cabana. Spa services are available at all three hotels.

article courtesy: slocoastjournal.com

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KENYAN CONNECTION

4 Aug
Mother and baby elephant in Tsavo

Mother and baby elephant in Tsavo

Almost everyone who has been to Africa describes it as among his or her favorite travel destinations. I am no different. When as a single mother, I took my 11 year-old son by myself to Kenya, some wondered about that decision, especially as it was shortly after the 1998 Kenyan bombings.

After a couple of unmemorable days in Nairobi (perhaps I shouldn’t elaborate), we headed toward the Tsavo National Park, one of the largest and oldest game reserves in Kenya. Because it was only the two of us, our driver, whose name we later learned was Muguro, picked us up in a smaller van rather than the usual larger Landcruiser. As we headed down what they call a “major road” or highway, we were wide-eyed with clenched fists as he navigated the road’s huge craters. Littered along the road were many overturned trucks and other vehicles sacrificed by the perilous road, but we relaxed as Muguro deftly maneuvered the van.

The flight fiascoes we faced en route to Nairobi won’t be revisited here, but suffice it to say we missed our original flight, arriving late sans luggage.  While staying in Nairobi and waiting for our luggage to arrive, we purchased one spare set of clothes each and the most basic toiletries. The suitcases had not arrived by the time we left for the safari.  As we travelled the potholed road, it quickly became evident our luggage would never make it to the safari site. That actually turned out to be a freeing experience-in the morning, we hung our dirty clothing outside our hotel room door to be washed by the staff, and donned our clean apparel-no decisions to be made about clothing or other grooming.

While driving toward Tsavo, Muguro pointed out wildlife in the hills or on the distant horizon.  Asking how he spotted them, he said you look for movement or a change in color. That lesson has helped me be far more vigilant in spotting wildlife, whether in Africa, home or other places.

Muguro was a quiet, dignified man, speaking only those things that needed to be said.  As he took us on our dawn and dusk safari rides with the backdrop of Mt. Kilimanjaro, we gradually got to know him a little better. Besides his excellent skills at sighting wildlife on land, he was keen at identifying the many different birds.  He also explained there were about 40 tribes in Kenya, each which had its own language, with most Kenyans speaking English and Swahili.  He taught us some Swahili; my favorite word was “twiga” which fittingly means giraffe. Muguro related there were good relationships between the tribes and various minorities at that time.

We asked what area he was from, and he told us the Mt. Kenya area. Knowing the Mt. Kenya Safari Club was a popular big game safari and celebrity destination, I asked if he led big game safaris. When he affirmed he had, I asked if he had any interesting memories. By this time, we had been with him for five days, so he was somewhat less reserved, and related that he used to take William Holden on safari. Though not particularly impressed by celebrities, I asked him how those ventures went. He replied that Mr. Holden had sat around and in the tent all day drinking.

We loved our twice daily drives with Muguro, his beautiful countenance and incredible skills at spotting and tracking animals. We learned he was a loving father and husband. It was with sadness that we said our good-byes when he returned us to Nairobi. When we were at the Nairobi airport, as we were ready to depart, my son spotted Muguro and ran to give him a hug; Muguro smiled and hugged him in return.

Last letter from Muguro

Last letter from Muguro

We had already exchanged addresses, and kept in touch, receiving a last letter from him in 2003. Sadly, the next letter I sent came back as undeliverable, and I have never been able to contact him again. Near my home, I recently spotted a camouflaged fox traversing the landscape-a fond reminder our special time with Muguro.

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SWING DANCING IN CATALINA’S CASINO BALLROOM

23 Jul

Catalina Casino Ballroom

The “Big Band” wails swing music in the sybaritic art-deco Casino Ballroom in Avalon on Catalina Island. Dancers of all ages dressed in their ’40s finest triple-step, lindy, glide, and even perform aerials to the rhythmic, revved-up sounds of the Second World War. The Catalina Swing Dance Festival occurs annually in November (this year November 8-10.) During the day, a variety of  classes are available including the Charleston, Lindy Hop, Collegiate Shag, 1950s Teen Swing, the Balboa, and more. The Balboa dance uses small, close dance steps which were developed to cope with California’s Balboa Peninsula’s crowded dance floors in the 1920s. Instructors at the swing dance festival are enthusiastic, renowned professional performers and teachers. One needn’t have a dance partner to participate in the dance workshops or even be a dancer to enjoy this lively, nostalgic festival.

Swing Dancing in Casino Ballroom

Swing Dancing in Casino Ballroom

On Saturday evening, even non-dancers can enjoy the live big bands and decked-out dancers in against the backdrop of the largest circular ballroom in the world. When it was built in 1929 it became the tallest building in Los Angeles. In it early heyday, thousands of dancers would arrive by steamship for the privilege and pleasure of dancing in the historic ballroom, which can accommodate over 6000 dancers!  Built with dancers in mind, the ramps to the top floor ballroom facilitate relatively quick access to the dance floor and were also designed to prevent injuries or fatigue that could be caused by stairs. In addition, the hardwood floor was constructed over layers of foam, pine and cork, which are suspended over five feet.

Besides the Casino Ballroom events, there is après-festival karaoke at El Galleon Restaurant, as well as midnight swing dancing at Antonio’s. In addition, there are both planned and spontaneous swing dance demonstrations on Crescent Avenue, the main tourist walkway. For people who wish only to make a day trip, there is typically a special 12:45 a.m. return ferry to Long Beach.

Descanso Beach Club

Descanso Beach Club

Non-dancers and dancers can enjoy the island’s many land, air and water activities. Too numerous to mention them all, some of the land highlights include Wrigley Gardens, interior tours, golf, walking tours, bike rentals, and ghost tours. Scuba, snorkeling and “snuba” are available, which will require donning a wetsuit due to the cold water this time of year. Although the Descanso Beach Club, on one of precious few sandy beach spots on the island, is scheduled to be closed from mid-October until mid-April for low season, they sometimes open for out-of season warm weather weekends. They have cocktails, beach chair rentals, and snorkeling. For the adventurous, there is a nearby zip line eco tour. Information about Catalina Island activities is available at: www.catalinachamber.com/island/activities.

The vibrantly painted Lobster Trap emphasizes fresh, tasty seafood in a casual and sometimes raucous atmosphere with friendly service at reasonable prices. Memorable appetizers include “monkey balls” (ahi-stuffed mushroom tempura), a variety of fresh fish with a choice of seven delectable sauces, as well as a good selection of chicken, beef and other land animals. A full bar, live weekend entertainment, and televised sporting events make this a fun and popular spot..

Inn on Mt. Ada

Inn on Mt. Ada

For a memorable lunch, head up to the Inn on Mt. Ada, the former Wrigley Mansion, perched atop a hill overlooking Avalon and its harbor. The highlight is spending several hours at the Inn with a lunch that includes unlimited beverages (wine, sodas, coffee and tea) and an extensive menu of salads, sandwiches, burgers, and the daily Mexican special. Even after finishing lunch, guests are free to roam the main floor of the Inn which houses the den, sun porch, living room, formal dining room, and the terrace, which reveals a spectacular view of Avalon, the harbor and beyond. The Inn is the premier place to stay on Catalina. Reservations required.

For a central hotel location with easy harbor and beach access, the newly-remodeled, mid-century style Pavilion Hotel is ideal for both couples and families. Amenities include continental breakfast, afternoon wine and cheese social, tranquil lounge areas, a cozy fire pit, and bright, airy rooms. The hotel is perfect for both families and couples. Luxurious accommodations are available at The Inn on Mt. Ada, but due to its location at the top of the hill, transportation is needed to get to the Inn and back to Avalon. Camping is another option for the adventurous or budget-minded.

Book the hotel, festival and ferry early and pack as lightly as possible due to the necessity of carting luggage from the car to the ferry, the hotel and then back. Round-trip ferries on Catalina Express to Avalon leave from Long Beach, San Pedro, and Dana Point. The length of the boat ride depends on the route and type of boat, so carefully consider all options. The other transportation options are helicopter, or private plane which lands on the perilous-looking runway high on the island.

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VACATION IN THE HAPPIEST PLACE IN AMERICA

1 May
Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa

Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa

San Luis Obispo California has been named by Oprah Winfrey as “the happiest place in America.”  New York Times best-selling author and explorer, Dan Buettner, called San Luis Obispo the top spot for the happiest places in the United States in his book Thrive.  San Luis Obispo was also one of ten recommended best places to see in 2013 by the L.A. Times. People who aren’t fortunate enough to live in San Luis Obispo and its charming surrounding environs can make this a fulfilling vacation destination for well-known attractions, as well as some unexpected finds. The problem, if one wants to call it that, is there are so many things to do and see, is narrowing down the list to a manageable itinerary that has a balance of both energizing and relaxing activities. Trying to explore every area of the County would be exhausting; focusing on one or two areas of the County allows the visitor to really experience a specific region. These are some of the top travel destinations in the County.

San Luis Obispo Creek

San Luis Obispo Creek

The City of San Luis Obispo is centrally located and just inland enough from the ocean to have a temperate, sunny climate most of the year. San Luis or SLO, as it is called by many locals, is a college town, with the bars, stores and eateries that attract that population; they coexist with wine bars and gourmet restaurants which may appeal more to mature audiences. Start by exploring the inviting, historic downtown area which includes a creek, sculptures of bears (that non-locals are surprised to learn are native to this area), and the Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa started in 1772. The church of this active parish has several unique features including that it is the only “L-shaped” mission.

There are many great restaurants in downtown San Luis, with many types of cuisine in casual to upscale locales. Open all day starting at 11 a.m., Novo Restaurant uses in-house roasted spices in their globally-inspired cuisine, including Asian, Mediterranean, and South American. Novo has a bevy of adult beverages including local and international wines, beer, sake, a full bar, and non-alcoholic selections. The creekside patio offers the relaxing sounds of the babbling San Luis Obispo creek.  A more upscale atmosphere is found at Koberl at Blue located in the historic J.P. Andrews building. They offer creative European- and Asian-inspired dishes for snacks and dinner in their convivial bar or the more formal dining room. A full-bar and wines selected to complement foods are available.

Madonna-Inn-photos-Exterior

Madonna Inn

A short five-minute drive from downtown is the kitschy Madonna Inn celebrated for its unique, themed rooms (Caveman, Old Mill, some which include rock showers or waterfalls),  dominant hot pink paint, and the infamous men’s waterfall urinal where a waterwheel  and waterfall are activated by a laser light when it detects a “customer.” The Madonna Inn boasts a large dance floor which attracts many phenomenal local dancers who impress with swing, salsa, foxtrot, cha-cha, rumba, waltzes and more. Mondays bring out students from the Cal Poly dance clubs who provide energetic, entertaining dance displays, which sometimes includes exciting dance “lifts” or “aerials.”

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Hearst Castle

The County’s northern most beach area starts from just south of the start of Big Sur’s scenic Pacific Coast Highway; San Simeon is the starting point for touring Hearst Castle, almost three decades in the making. The mansion evokes strong feelings from visitors who either find the hodgepodge collection of antiques and architectural styles impressive or tacky. Just seven miles north of San Simeon is the popular northern elephant seal rookery where twice a year these gargantuan mammals stop for birthing, breeding, molting and resting. Each of the county’s many beaches has unique offerings from quirky Cayucos, surf-friendly Morro Bay, teeming tidepools at Montaña de Oro, the classic beach town of Pismo Beach, and the sand dunes in Oceano where cars can still drive on the beach. There are also places where people can fulfill the dream of riding a horse along the beach. Local beaches have a tendency to be foggy in the summer, with Avila Beach and Cayucos tending to be the most likely to be sunny in the summer. Restaurant picks in Cayucos include Hoppe’s Garden Bistro, which features French- and Austrian-inspired cuisine, and Schooner’s restaurant and bar, a diametrically opposite atmosphere, where leather-skinned locals and beach patrons come for the fantastic beach view from the second floor with the hopes of seeing the mystical “green flash.”

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Paso vineyard

Paso Robles and Templeton in northern San Luis Obispo County have become meccas for enophiles, foodies, and festivals, while maintaining their friendly small town ambience. Many of the oak-studded hills of rural northern San Luis Obispo County are lined with rows of zinfandel, pinot noir, Rhone varietals, and native Spanish and Italian grapes. Tasting rooms vary from the small, intimate owner/winemaker operations to larger Mission- and European-inspired venues. Wineries often sponsor events such as winemaker dinners, live music, cooking classes, art exhibits, hot air ballooning, movies and more. For a safe and relaxing wine crawl, transportation is available by local wine trolleys and vans, or reasonably-priced limos. Downtown “Paso” has evolved from a town that emphasized a rural, ranching lifestyle to one that also embraces some of the county’s best cuisine, comfortable to luxurious lodging, and stellar live entertainment. An alternative to driving to the wineries is to stay in downtown Paso and “hoof it” to downtown wine tasting rooms such as Asuncion Ridge, which focuses on Pinot Noir and red blends, Bodegas Paso Robles which features Spanish and Portuguese grapes and wines, and Paso Wine Centre, which serves 48 changing local wines.

From downtown Paso, one can walk to some of the top restaurants in the county.  Il Cortile features seasonal, rustic fine-dining Italian cuisine and warm, welcoming staff. Open for dinner, specialties include creative appetizers, a bountiful selection of mozzarella cheeses, homemade pasta, and when available, pork osso bucco, a house favorite. They have a balanced selection of good local and Italian wines.  Artisan serves locally-sourced, creative American fare. Their lunch and dinner menus are inspired by local farmers’ markets, organic farms and proteins that are sustainably-farmed or caught in the wild. Besides a large California wine selection featuring mostly fine and limited production local wines, they also have a diverse beer selection. Bistro Laurent offers Provencal dishes for lunch and more traditional French bistro cuisine at dinner with the choice of a prix-fixe or a la carte menu. The friendly, knowledgeable sommelier is available to assist in a wine selection in that matches the diner’s palate and pocketbook. An outdoor patio is available for dining al fresco

Hotel ChevalThe best downtown lodging is at the Hotel Cheval, a small luxury boutique hotel, just a half a block from the large city park, which is the hub for the many local festivals and weekly Farmer’s Market. They offer many amenities including cushy linens, welcome cookies, bedtime chocolates, breakfast, fireplace in the central patio, and dog-friendly premises. Although not downtown, the nearby Adelaide Inn and La Bellasera Hotel and Suites also offer comfortable, upscale rooms and amenities. For the more budget-minded, there are several reasonably-priced chain or locally-owned hotels. For those desiring a more pastoral setting, many Bed and Breakfasts are available, most at a very reasonable price.  For lengthy lists of local wineries, restaurants, lodging options, and upcoming festivals or events, go to www.travel.paso.com and www.pasorobleschamber.com.

Screen Shot 2013-07-19 at 10_07_04 AMTempleton is a small, historic town just a few minutes south of Paso.  McPhee’s Grill is a popular downtown eatery located in the building that was the first store in Templeton built in 1886. Hitching posts for horses still adorn the front of the building. Friendly, hands-on owner and chef, Ian McPhee, cooks, greets customers, and even clears tables if needed.  McPhee’s specializes in oak-grilled meats, “with a dedication to great food and great service.” They have a good selection of local wines; as well, they have a relationship with renowned winemaker Jim Clendenen, of Au Bon Climat, who crafts wines specifically for McPhee’s. Also on Main Street is locals-favorite wine and beer bar is 15 Degrees C Wine Shop and Bar. Master Sommelier, Ali Carscaden, has one of the largest selections of wine on the Central Coast, with many local and unique international wines. They offer a great charcuterie meat and cheese plate artfully-designed with marcona almonds, castelvetrano olives, seasonal fruit and when available, seasonal, decorative flowers.  Saturday mornings at the Templeton Park is where people can find one of the county’s best farmers’ markets, with local produce, organic grain-fed meats, local nuts, flowers, fresh goat cheese, and food cooked to order.  Serving the community since 1887, the nearby Bethel Lutheran Church is the oldest church west of the Mississippi. While wine-tasting, a great spot for a midday lunch is Farmstand 46, which is in the middle of the “Westside Templeton wineries” on Highway 46. They offer tasty gourmet meals featuring organic, estate-grown produce and herbs.

D’Anbino’s Winery/Concert Venue

An unexpected bonus of staying in northern San Luis Obispo County is the wealth of talented musicians who perform at a variety of local venues. The premier North County music venue is D’Anbino Vineyard and Cellar tasting Room, known for their stellar entertainment, great acoustics, and welcoming ambience of the owners, John D’Andrea and Carmine Rubino, who have had award-winning professional careers in recording, film and television. The tasting room, which is less than four blocks from downtown, offers afternoon performances on the week-end and evening concerts featuring everything from standards to rock and roll. The Pony Club in the Hotel Cheval offers live music on the week-ends, which can be enjoyed on their inviting outdoor courtyard.  During the summer, there are live concerts at the Templeton Park on Wednesdays and the Paso Robles City Park on Fridays. Many of the wineries offer live music, especially in the summer. Unfortunately the winery concert schedules are not available in one central location, but can be found on the individual winery websites.

Additional information on the local music and dance scene can be found in this writer’s monthly column Mostly Music column: slocoastjournal.com/docs/mostlymusic.html‎

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BLACK IN BELIZE

9 Jun
San_Pedro,_Ambergris_Caye,_Belize_-_Beach

Beach on Ambergris Caye
Credit: Wikipedia

“I am a strong black woman,” declared Vanessa, as I will call her lest someone in her hometown of San Pedro on Ambergris Caye, Belize should read this. While I was relaxing on the beach in the warm, tropical sun, a beautiful local woman watched as her two young children played in the ocean. The girl, who I learned was six years old, frolicked joyfully in the water while her more reckless two year old brother repeatedly dove head first into shallow water. Even though he sometimes swallowed some of the salt water, he was undeterred and continued his energetic romp.

Meanwhile a couple strolled down the beach with their dog which picked up clothing belonging to the little girl. About 20 yards down the beach the couple noticed the dog had an article of clothing in its mouth, and told him to drop it. The dog obeyed, but then I was surprised to see them continue to proceed down the beach without attempting to return the item to the rest of the obvious children’s clothing pile on the beach.

I then approached the woman, informing her about the dog taking her daughter’s clothing down the beach and the lack of basic courtesy by the pair who did not return the item. We began talking about the general deterioration of basic manners among people, along with parenting topics, and local issues.

After exchanging first names, we talked about the challenges of parenting. Besides the two young children with her, she also had a daughter in her final year of high school. We spoke of our common experiences of raising three children and the challenges of parenting. Vanessa said that even though she didn’t have much money that she emphasized education and good manners for her children. She proudly related her oldest daughter had recently received a full scholarship for University study the coming fall.

Having made many trips to Ambergris Caye and fantasizing about living there, I asked her what is was like to be a full-time resident. I noted that it appeared people of varied ethnicities and races all seemed to live peacefully together.  She said that there are ongoing racial inequities and political corruption. When asked, she gave several examples, including how a local woman committed a serious, violent crime, but due to her being white and married to a politician she was immediately released from custody and never charged with a crime. Vanessa related that she was never personally subject to any police investigations, but stated she sometimes did get treated poorly due to the dark color of her skin. It was at this time that she said, “I am a proud black woman,” and it was clear that in spite of this type of treatment she always comported herself with the utmost dignity and integrity.

The afternoon was getting late and it was time for her to head home. She summoned her children from the water. Her daughter immediately cooperated. Vanessa lovingly dried off her daughter and put on the dress that the dog had carried down the beach. However, her son did not want to get out of the water. He kept diving into the water and dodging her, but she patiently and quietly retrieved him, dried him off, and then changed his diaper and clothes. We said our farewells and best wishes. After they departed I reflected on the similarities and differences in our lives and how things like beyond our control like where we are born and the color of our skin can have lasting impacts on our lives.

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